The Canon EOS 60D DSLR gives the photo enthusiast a powerful tool fostering creativity, with better image quality, more advanced features and automatic and in-camera technologies for ease-of-use. It features an improved APS-C sized 18 Megapixel CMOS sensor for tremendous images, a new DIGIC 4 Image Processor for finer detail and excellent color reproduction, and improved ISO capabilities from 100 - 6400 (expandable to 12800) for uncompromised shooting even in low light. The new Multi-control Dial enables users to conveniently operate menus and enter settings with a simple touch. The EOS 60D also features an EOS first: A Vari-angle 3.0-inch Clear View LCD (1,040,000 dots) monitor for easy low- or high-angle viewing. An improved viewfinder, a number of new in-camera creative options and filters, plus HDMI output for viewing images on an HDTV all make the EOS 60D invaluable for the evolving photographer. With continuously curved surfaces, user-friendliness and exuding solidity and refinement, the EOS 60D is true digital inspiration!
18.0-megapixel CMOS sensor and DIGIC 4 Imaging Processor; ISO 100-6400 (expandable to 12800)
Body only; lenses sold separately
Improved EOS HD Video mode with manual exposure control; Vari-angle 3.0-inch Clear View LCD monitor
5.3 fps continuous shooting; enhanced iFCL 63-zone, Dual-layer metering system
Compatibility with SD/SDHC/SDXC memory cards (not included)
19 New — prices too low to display (click "More Info" or "Add to Cart" button to see prices)
9 Used from $1,379.99
May Be Eligible for SuperSaver Free Shipping
A Whole New Class of EOS.
With a host of brand new features designed to enhance every facet of the photographic process, from still images to video, the new EOS 7D represents a whole new class of camera.
Made to be the tool of choice for serious photographers and semi-professionals, the EOS 7D features an all-new 18.0 Megapixel APS-C size CMOS sensor and Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processors, capturing tremendous images at up to ISO 12800 and speeds of up to 8 fps. The EOS 7D has a new all cross-type 19-point AF system with improved AI Servo AF subject tracking and user-selectable AF area selection modes for sharp focus no matter the situation. The EOS 7D's Intelligent Viewfinder, an entirely newly-designed technology, provides 100% coverage and displays user-selected AF modes as well as a spot metering circle and on demand grid lines. New iFCL Metering with 63-zone dual-layer metering system uses both focus and color information to provide accurate exposure even in difficult lighting. The EOS 7D also captures Full HD video at 30p (29.97 fps), 24p (23.976 fps) and 25p with an array of manual controls, including manual exposure during movie shooting and ISO speed selection. The EOS 7D features a magnesium alloy body that is dust- and weather-resistant and shutter durability of up to 150,000 cycles. Compatible with over 60 EF and EF-S lenses as well as with EOS System accessories, the creative opportunities - not just with stills but also with video - are beyond amazement.
18.0-megapixel CMOS Sensor and Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processors for high image quality and speed
Body only; lenses sold separately
Advanced HD movie mode with manual exposure control and selectable frame rates
Intelligent Viewfinder with 100 percent field of view; 19-point, all cross-type AF system equipped with dual diagonal cross-type sensors
Capture images to CF Card Type I and II, UDMA-compliant CF cards (not included)
No, but it's so good that one starts to contemplate this question, which was never the case before the 7D was introduced. Both systems, crop and full frame, have their pros and cons and place in photography. But before I get into that let me say I have not been as excited about a camera since the introduction of the 5D MK I four years ago. That's because the 7D raises the crop camera bar to the point where crop users will not feel at a disadvantage to full frame camera users, especially if coupled with awesome ef-s lenses such as the 17-55 f2.8.
How so? The 7D sets a new standard in four major ways.
1. It produces whopping 18MP pictures, which are just 3MP shy of the current top of the line full frame Canon cameras. Just few years ago most pros were producing stellar results using the 1Ds MKII 16MP camera. Now you have more MPs in a crop sensor, that's a major achievement. This achievement translates into bigger prints and, perhaps more importantly, cropping power. Out shooting wildlife with a 300mm instead of 400mm? You can crop the 7D files down to 50% of their original file size and still obtain sharp pictures. It's just not that easy with the 1D MK III 10MP files.
2. Many worried that extra MPs in small crop sensors would translate into nosier pictures, but the amazing thing is that this camera produces images with what seems to be less noise than the 1Ds MKII. The noise level is very good. At ISO 1600 I still prefer pictures coming from my 5D MKII, but below ISO1600 they are very close. Frankly, I can go with either camera because most of my professionally shot portraits and product pictures are shot at ISO100. At ISO100 both produce very clean files and are practically indistinguishable.
3. Focus is the one area that was lacking on the previous 1.6 crop Canon cameras and this camera changes that. It's not a 1D in focus speed and accuracy, but it's the next best thing compared to them. It's faster than the Canon 5D MKII, which is known to be slightly faster or around the focus performance range of the 50D and 40D.
4. The drive chain is fast, so fast it's beyond anything I needed in my professional work in portrait, commercial, and product photography. Going through pictures taken at 8fps produces very little difference from frame to frame. One probably has to shoot a very fast moving subject/object to see the advantage of such fast drive system.
There are obviously many other things that I have not covered in this review. But based on the above, all I can say is that this camera has really raised the bar for all cameras and made it much more affordable to obtain a professional level camera for all types of photography. If you were considering buying the 5D MKII as an upgrade give this camera a test because it might be all you need.
As for the advantages of crop cameras I always find it odd that casual users who shoot many things but focus on landscape think they need a full frame to realize their potential. Crop cameras such as the 7D and 50D are fine for most users and offer many advantages including:
1. greater depth of field at lower aperture for landscape photography
2. greater tilt and shift effect because of sensor size relative to effect (8mm in shift is greater in effect relative to a 22mm sensor compared to a 35mm sensor)
3. greater magnification with micro lenses and extension tubes because of smaller sensor (1:1 in full frame equals 35mm, 1:1 in crop equals 22mm)
4. smaller lighter lenses with wider aperture that achieve greater reach (such as the 17-55 2.8 vs the 24-70 2.8 similar reach but much lighter and smaller)
Traditionally the three areas full frame cameras outshine crop cameras are a bigger brighter viewfinder, shallower depth of field for portrait photography, and better ISO performance, which on the last point the 7D has proven not be an issue anymore.
And for the second point really, most beautiful low depth of field portraits are done around f2.8-2.0 in full frame (going wider will make depth of field too narrow to place two eyes in focus). Hence, if one is using a wide prime, a crop sensor will produce the same depth of field at 2.0-1.4. Considering an affordable 50mm f1.4 lens on crop has the same field of view as 85mm lens on full frame there is really no reason to discount a crop camera any more as the 7D levels the playing field.
Canon EOS 7D
Reviewed by: Richard, Alhambra, CA Review Date: 2009-10-14
Well after much deliberation between this and a 5d Mark II i decided to opt for the 7D and spend the extra I save on some nice wide angle lenses. First of all for anyone who is expecting a 1.6 crop camera's image quality to be better than the 5d mark ii you can forget it. The 5D mark ii is a full frame sensor camera and the 7D is a crop, different cameras for different purposes. I know three people who own a 5d mark II, wedding photographer, cinematographer and a landscape photographer. As you can tell, they all need wide angle and good low light performance. The 5D Mark II/other full frame cameras are targeted towards users with wide angle needs. So if you find yourself in a crowded room with little light during a wedding the EOS 7D may not be for you, less you put on a 10-22mm EFS lens which is the widest lens for a APS-C camera.
Image Quality from this camera is amazing, I'll put up some pictures once it stops raining where I live. Detail is very good, and the 28-135 lens accommodates this cameras ability very nicely, however, starting off at 28mm will probably be too long for most people in everyday situations such as those for street photographers. Picking up a 17-55 2.8 lens will probably be highly recommended by many.
Build Quality is superb. This "tank" of a camera is no light weight and one of the first things you notice when you pick up the camera is the hefty feel you get. Very ergonomic grip and a robust feel all around. Don't expect to have it hanging around your next too long though. Weather seals are improved and you can notice that the area above the viewfinder is much larger thanks to a 100% coverage pentaprism.
Autofocusing, now I've read some issues about the 7D's new focusing system such as softness from auto zone focusing and I am also getting some mixed results with that as well, some images ranging from very soft to some being as sharp as single AF select. I will update later as I take it out for more situations. However, with that being said, the camera's autofocusing with the 28-135mm lens is very quiet, very fast and accurate for the most part especially with using the cameras single AF select mode.
Battery Life: still on the first charge off the box, taken about 500 test shots and a few seconds of 720p recording, battery life is about halfway.
ISO performance. Now here is where many have a bone to pick. I am not afraid to use high ISO as my prints rarely go beyond 11x14. More than often I found myself using nothing higher than ISO 1600 on my girlfriend's 500D/T1i. With the 7D I feel very comfortable using 3200 with about ISO 4000 being my cut off point, that's where the trade offs between detail and noise will become apparent and start to bother me.
Overall this camera is a very impressive and I'd give it a rating of about 90/100. It has alot to offer being a HD video DSLR. It'll provide many rebel users enough room to learn and grow. However, I cant stress enough that if you find yourself needing wide angle capabilities and low light performance, saving up for a full frame, it will definitely be worth the wait in the long run. In fact a few 5D Mark I cameras are available for cheaper than the 7D. Without a doubt this is one of the top crop cameras of the market right now. You won't regret buying this camera.
*Update* First of all, I've been using the wireless flash with a 430ex II for some portrait photography, it works fine and comes in very handy. Secondly, I've finally had a chance to customize all the settings of my camera, READ THE MANUAL! It's about 250 pages but you'll need to in order to make the most of your camera. Most of it is the usual, but because this camera offers so many different options, reading the latter pages is a must.
Firmware release 1.0.9 is out so dont forget to update if you still have 1.0.7.
For those of you still wondering if the 7D is worth the upgrade or worth buying over a full frame, keep in mind that Canon just release rebates for some EF and EF-S lenses including the 10-22 and 17-55 2.8; as well as some very popular L lenses. So for those of you debating between a 7D and Mark II, getting a kit and using the money saved for a wide angle will pretty much cover all the focal lengths you will really need.
Should I Buy This Camera?
Reviewed by: Gatorowl, Florida, USA Review Date: 2009-10-15
I think this question is one that most of us ask ourselves when considering a purchase of this magnitude. The question is not an easy one, and I'm not sure I made the correct decision in purchasing this marvelous piece of technology. Let me put it in perspective; I am a prosumer camera user. I love photography and take a variety of photographs including family pictures, sports photography (see photos at smugmug for gatorowl), and casual street photography. I have owned lots of cameras including film, digital P&S and DSLRs. The 7D is my sixth DSLR (including a DReb XSI that I sold after two weeks). Before the 7D, my main camera was a 40D, which I found to be satisfactory especially the image quality (IQ). The negatives of the 40D are lack of weather sealing, 6.5 frames per second (fps) repeat rate, 1600 ISO max (can be pushed higher) and some focusing issues especially in sports photography. Of course, when comparing with the the DReb series, these "negatives" immediately become positives. The 40D has better construction, much faster repeat rate, and much better focussing (the T1i has, arguably better high ISO capabilities). The 40D compares well with the Nikon D90. Both cameras are very close. The D90 has video, better high ISO performance, and is a little more compact. However, it is a little slower in repeat rate, and I found selecting D90 focus points a bit on the clumsy side. Anyway, because of lens choices, I decided to go Canon. The 50D held no allure mainly because it was an incremental improvement. So, I thought my kit was set for at least a couple of years.
Notice that in the above discussion, I never talk about IQ. Of all the 10MP or better DSLRs that I have used, there is no noticeable difference in IQ. However, after the 7D announcement and some of the preliminary reviews, I was convinced that the 7D was a quantum improvement over the 40D in every respect. I panicked, sold my 40D and bought a 7D.
So, what did I find? The 7D is a great camera and is a clear improvement over the 40D. In some respects, it is substantially better than a 40D, but IQ isn't one of those major improvements. If you look at your files at 100%-300%, you will see more detail in a 7D shot. I have a standard photo that I take in my office when I get a new lens. I had to blow the photos up to 300% before I could detect differences. There was more texture detail in the 7D and the contrast and saturation were better. However, to be honest, it's not clear how much of this difference is attributable to the camera or the lenses (I shot the 40D with a Sigma 70-300mm and the 7D with a Canon 70-300mm IS lens). Frankly, I'm not surprised. DSLRs are so good right now, differences in IQ at low ISO are marginal. However, I do feel confident that I can shoot at 1600 ISO or 2000 ISO with the 7D without a substantial reduction in quality. While I can control noise at 3200 ISO, color saturation and contrast decline more than I like. With the 40D 800 ISO was as far as I wanted to go, but I would push it to 1000 when desperate. The 7D provides is a major ISO gain.
I really love the 7D focus system. I don't know if it is as good as the Canon 1D series, but it is so, so much better than the 40D. By focusing on the exact point in a field, I feel like my creative options are substantially expanded. I was frequently frustrated by having the wrong part of my picture in focus. This need never happen with the 7D.
The 8fps repeat rate is a nice bonus. It just raises the probability that the exact frame you want will be captured.
So, the question is should you upgrade? You have to decide whether you can afford it; so my advice assume that you can afford the camera, but are looking for the camera that best matches how you shoot.
If this is your first SLR (film or digital):
I'd recommend starting with a Canon T1i or Nikon 90D. The 7D is an extremely complex camera that will take many hours to learn and dozen of hours shooting to master. Unless you have the time to invest in such a camera it will just be a source of frustration. Unlike almost every other camera I've owned, the user will obtain disappointing or bad results unless s/he truly understands this equipment. By contrast, you can take other DSLRs and just start shooting. Unlike the other cameras, the 7D has no scene modes. With other DSLRs you can take your time and gradually learn the more sophisticated capabilities. Most importantly, the quality of your pictures will be just as good.
If you are moving up from an entry level DSLR:
You need to ask yourself why you are moving up? If you are dissatisfied with the IQ, then the 7D is not your answer. Using the 7D, it will take a lot more work (initially) to become proficient. However, if you need a faster framerate, better high ISO performance (although the T1i and D90 are very good for high ISO), long for a better focussing system, or shoot in the rain or the beach, then the 7D might make sense.
If you are moving up from a mid-level XXD or Nikon D300:
As before, you're getting very little IQ improvement (wildlife photographers claim they can use the extra cropping capability, but I'm not convinced it's substantial). Buy the 7D because the features provide you with value. Also, I would seriously discourage anyone from switching from a Nikon D300 to a 7D. There has to be an absolute must-have 7D feature for you to make that leap.
As for me, I don't regret this purchase. I'll never say never, but I'm hoping that the 7D will be my last crop-sensor camera. I love the flexibility and expansion of creative options that the new features allow me. It's a wonderful camera. I'm looking forward to spending many hours becoming intimately acquainted with its capabilities.
Best Canon APS-C DSLR Yet
Reviewed by: Garrett Lowenthal, San Francisco, CA Review Date: 2009-10-28
By any measure, the new Canon EOS 7D is a worthy successor to the EOS line of APS-C sensor DSLRs. I believe it finally levels the playing field for many Canon shooters envious of Nikon DXXX shooters.
I am an advanced amateur photographer who has owned the 20D for the last 5 years and will use it as a backup body now. With each Canon announcement of a successor to the XXD line of DSLRs, I was tempted to upgrade but resisted each time up until now. This was partly due to budgetary constraints, but I felt mostly that each new model was only an evolutionary modification rather than a revolutionary one. If there's one thing to keep in mind in this fast-moving world of DSLR photography, then it is that DSLR bodies come and go (and depreciate quickly in value, like most electronic goods) but excellent glass will nearly always be sound investments (high-quality lenses maintained in good condition may appreciate in value).
The 7D appears to be a game-changer for many Canon photo enthusiasts like myself who prefer or can only afford to shoot with an APS-C sensor body. Nikon shooters have had an excellent choice of a crop sensor body in the D100/D200/D300 (now D300s), but for Canon shooters, the top-of-the-line equivalent was trailing in the feature set department. Now most of the features that were absent in the Canon XXD body as compared with their main rival are present in the 7D.
Notable features:
- 18 MP APS-C CMOS sensor
- Dual DIGIC 4 processors (a first for a prosumer Canon DSLR)
- Maximum 8 fps frame rate
- Maximum ISO 12,800
- VF with 100% coverage and 1.0x magnification (a first for a Canon DSLR)
- 19-pt AF (all cross-type with f/5.6 or faster lenses)
- 63-zone metering system (measures focus, color, and luminance)
- On-demand grid lines in VF (a first for any Canon DSLR)
- Built-in electronic leveler in 2 planes (a first for any Canon DSLR)
- Built-in wireless flash trigger (a first for any Canon DSLR)
- HD video in 1080p (30/25/24 fps) and 720p (60/50 fps)
I have had the camera for over a week now. My initial impressions are mostly positive thus far. Additional thoughts in the form of updates will be forthcoming once I get an opportunity to capture more images under various conditions (indoors/low light, outdoors, action, etc.) and get my act together to type it up. So far, I believe that the IQ, VF, LCD monitor, and handling are all vast improvements over the 20D. Taking photos at high ISOs and achieving low noise captures is all the rage these days. I feel that random photos I've taken at ISO settings up to 1600 are completely usuable. In the past, I felt comfortable shooting with my 20D mostly south of ISO 400/800. I shall pixel peep some more and shoot at even higher ISOs to see where the happy medium for me shooting with the 7D lies. Tolerance for noise, I feel, is very subjective.
Limitations:
There is a steep learning curve with this camera. The 7D is packed with new features that I have yet to maximize to my advantage. Coming from a 20D rather than a more recent line of XXD body makes things even more challenging. A careful read of the user's manual is critical.
If ultimately low noise captures at high ISOs is most important to you, then a FF sensor body is the way to go rather than an APS-C sensor body. A larger pixel pitch that captures more light (at the expense of lower resolution) will help maintain low noise levels at very high ISOs. This is a key reason why the small-body FFs, such as the Nikon D700, Canon 5D/5DMkII, and Sony A900/A850, are so revered. Any of those cameras will likely outperform the 7D at high ISOs in terms of low noise captures. Moreover, they provide less DoF than APS-Cs at equivalent fields of view. However, the obvious downsides are their cost and need for big, heavy, and expensive glass.
The 7D should not be viewed as an HD camcorder replacement. Although useful to have and with slightly more shooting options as compared with the version currently offered in the 5DMkII, video capture in the 7D still suffers from lack of continuous AF. Unfortunately, the jello phenomenon (from rolling shutter) and monoaural sound (external stereo mic input is available, though) make for a less than harmonious package.
*** Please be aware that some information about potential problems with the initial batch of 7D bodies has surfaced on photography forums and elsewhere (including here on Amazon). They include difficulties with the new AF system (particularly in AI servo mode, though some users have had trouble in any AF mode) resulting in OOF photos, as well as ghosting (residual preceding images captured in subsequent images) under certain shooting conditions. Canon is aware of the latter and will issue a firmware update in the near future. Meanwhile, a firmware update (1.0.9) has already been issued that fixes problems with suboptimal AF in Live View, among other bugs. Of note, my copy has no troubles with AF that I have encountered at this point. ***
Overall Impression:
The Canon EOS 7D is probably the best overall Canon APS-C sensor DSLR currently available. As far as feature set, it fares extremely well with its slightly more expensive main rival, the Nikon D300s. In its favor, the D300s has a larger, 51-pt AF system and dual CF/SD card slots. A scientific shoot-out from a reputable photography website or magazine is sorely needed to help resolve the issue of which has better IQ at high ISOs. I believe the current lack of Adobe software support for 7D RAW images is the rate-limiting step.
With my limited use of the 7D thus far, I have found the camera to be a sheer pleasure to shoot with. It is a worthy upgrade for 10D/20D users, and probably for 30D users as well. Shooters of the 40D/50D will need to determine whether the new features are worth dishing out $1700 USD for, particularly during these challenging economic times. Mostly anecdotal evidence exists so far that suggests there may be a slight improvement in IQ from the 7D as compared with the 40D/50D. Nikon and other brand photo enthusiasts should weigh the benefits and risks of switching systems.
Once Canon publicly addresses any potential problems with the AF system encountered by some users, then I can offer the 7D my highest recommendation.
I upgraded, should you?
Reviewed by: Vijay Raghavendiran, San Diego CA Review Date: 2009-10-26
It depends! If you are looking for a comparison between the 5D and the 7D, or if I would have a recommendation of one over the other, this is not for you. This is written from the perspective of someone who upgraded from the xxD series to the 7D. Before I go into a detailed review about the 7D and whether you should upgrade or not, a little background about me to help you guys compare it to your situation. I'm an amateur photographer who does the occasional paid gig, more because I enjoy it rather than for the money. I have been taking pictures for 4 years now, went through 35mm learning curve and then switched to 20D in Mar 06. I have shot with the 40D, but never owned the 30/40/50D. Current lenses include 17-40mm f/4L, 24-70mm f/2.8L, Tamron 28-75 f/2.8, 70-200mm f/4L IS, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8, 135mm f/2L & 100mm f/2.8macro. I still have my 35mm EOS 3 which I love and use rarely.
Am I happy I upgraded from the 20D?
You bet! I believe that one should invest in lenses first and keep the camera for the last (unless of course, if you are a pro). It has been a real upgrade from the 20D. The 7D feels like a slightly bigger and definitely heavier camera than the 20D and I am still getting used to carrying it (this is a review after 24 hrs of the purchase). When I put the 24-70 2.8L on to it, it balanced just beautifully, yes, both are heavy, but they just beautifully balance each other. I could carry the 20D with battery grip in one hand. However, the 7D+24-70L is definitely a two handed camera, even without the battery grip. If you are a petite lady or a guy with small hands reading this, you could get some practice lifting 5lbs dumb bells. No, I am not joking...add the 580EX on top of this, and you will know that I am serious. I love the way it feels in my hand and the way the camera rests firmly on my left palm while I hold it. So much for ergonomics and body feel. The neck strap has 7D written on it, which clearly is meant for bragging rights.
The IQ is the biggest jump from the 20D (duh!) Every clickgasm results in a beautiful image, especially when you combine it with a good repertoire of lenses. Yes, I said clickgasm, because every click is just so much sweeter like a 1000 bag pipers playing in the distant, but just for 1/60th of a second. Love it.
I also love the sensor cleaning functionality, something that was missing in the 20D, which was more prevalent in the 40D & 50D. It provides confidence and reassurance that this is a good thing for the camera.
Oh and talk about the LCD. A real leap for me, may be less so from the 50D, but I love how the menu functionality is organized. The resolution of the LCD is outstanding and almost zero glare. I constantly had that problem with the 20D, but this is a huge improvement and am very happy. In the 20D, you could'nt tell if an image was OOF, but in this, it is very obvious if there is a shake or OOF. And the color and contrast visible in the LCD itself is outstanding. Think of the jump between monochrome computer monitors to the color flat screens...that is what it is for me. In addition, I also like how the Quick Setting is organized, which displays about all the image settings from exposure scale, white balance, ISO, aperture, shutter speed, metering and all the happy stuff. The menu is different from the Quick Setting, and that goes into the additional details such as FEB, AEB, ISO expansion, custom functions, Highlight Tone Priority etc. Very well done Canon, I love it so far.
The 8fps is really cool, but I used to have 5 fps in the 20D with the battery grip and used it only while shooting sports, the 8 will come in handy on the rare occasion that I use it for pro sports. And you get that without any additional battery pack, which is good.
ISO expansion and noise reduction looks very good at the first glance. The pictures from the 20D were sub par at 800 and unusable at 1600 and above. I took a couple of pictures at 3200 with the 7D and am very impressed with the improvement in IQ. There is a substantial improvement despite the higher MP in the sensor, so very happy with it. For the thrill of it, I shot a pic at 12800 (posted it in the gallery, the canon 77mm lens cap) and compared it with the same pic at 3200. I would give a 5 star to canon on this one too.
OMG, the 19pt focus, I absolutely love it. Think of it this way, I learnt advanced photography in the Canon EOS 3 (35mm), which has 45 point focus. when I bought the 20D, I felt like it was a huge downgrade in focusing ability. It was not cool to loose the ECF feature of the 3 either. But I love going back to the 19point focus feature...I dont know, something about it is just cooler. It is most helpful in taking macro shots, which I do a lot of, and I dont have to move the focus and then move the camera ( I know, I know, pathetic way of taking macro shots). Again, glad that finally Canon is bringing this feature in.
Two features I am yet to use and will add it to a later review after use are the wireless flash and the HD video.
Should you upgrade from the 30/40/50D?
I have shot with a 40D and I have to say that the improvement in IQ from 20D to 40D was substantial and a bigger leap than the 40D to the 7D (I have not used the 50D). If you have $1900 extra and would love to splurge on this, by all means. The only time I would strongly advise against buying the 7D is if you spent much of your time with your previous DSLR in the basic mode and never in the P, Av, Tv, M modes. This camera doesnt have any of those modes and is not meant for someone interesting in learning photography, it is meant for someone who knows what they are doing.
If you are really interested in shooting HD video in one camera and want to make use of a good collection of lenses for the video, absolutely go for it. This provides a slightly cheaper option compared to the 5D. I never even considered the 5D as I knew it was not for me. I dont know that I will gain value for the additional $800. So cant help you if you are trying to choose between the 5d and the 7d.
The four biggest reasons I can see you going for an upgrade are
1. HD video
2. Wireless flash
3. 19 pt focus
4. Weather and Dust sealing that is a part of the xD series.
If you are considering an upgrade for the sake of IQ, you may be in for a disappointment. Dont get me wrong, there is an improvement (my POV is from 40D), but just that the 40D itself is so good that there is little room for Canon to improve. There are a lot more reasons to upgrade if you are using the 20D or the 30D as I have mentioned earlier in my review.
Any complaints with the camera so far?
None so far, Im very happy. Of course, the price could be cheaper, but oh well. I also wish real estate in California was cheaper, but lets be realistic, Canon is in this business to make money. I noticed that one reviewer had focusing problems, I have had none and am very happy with the camera so far.
I will continue posting pictures and additional review points...happy clickgasm!
UPDATE AFTER 7 DAYS OF USING THE CAMERA.
So far, I have been extremely happy. If there is something that has consistently wowed me, it is the LCD, amazing resolution, color and clarity in that. Portraits coming out of this camera are pleasing, more so on the 85/1.8 makes it a great combo. ISO1600 is usable, I took one or two in ISO12800, which was better in quality compared to my 20Ds 3200. Not great, but useful to preserve memories. May not suit professional expectations of quality. I uploaded some of my first pictures, not sure why Amazon is not displaying them (nothing obscene in the pictures). Definitely happy with my purchase and would highly recommend!
5 New — prices too low to display (click "More Info" or "Add to Cart" button to see prices)
9 Used from $690.00
Fusing 12.3-megapixel image quality inherited from the award-winning D300 with groundbreaking features, the D90's breathtaking, low-noise image quality is further advanced with EXPEED image processing. Split-second shutter response and continuous shooting at up to 4.5 frames-per-second provide the power to capture fast action and precise moments perfectly, while Nikon's exclusive Scene Recognition System contributes to faster 11-area autofocus performance, finer white balance detection and more. The D90 delivers the control passionate photographers demand, utilizing comprehensive exposure functions and the intelligence of 3D Color Matrix Metering II. Stunning results come to life on a 3-inch 920,000-dot color LCD monitor, providing accurate image review, Live View composition and brilliant playback of the D90's cinematic-quality 24-fps HD D-Movie mode.
12.3-megapixel DX-format CMOS imaging sensor
Body only; lenses sold separately
D-Movie Mode; Cinematic 24fps HD with sound
3-inch super-density 920,000-dot color LCD monitor
Capture images to SD/SDHC memory cards (not included)
You can tell the D90 was designed by photographers and not just engineers! Wonderful user interface and image quality!
Reviewed by: E. Kim, Review Date: 2008-09-29
I am far from a professional photographer, but I take it as seriously as possible while still referring to it as a hobby. I take mostly pictures of people at events and many of my baby son without flash in low light situations.
I had been using a Nikon D40x for 1 year and very early reached my limitation with that camera. The Nikon D40x has very nice image quality, but the camera's interface is not suited for a more serious shooter who wants quick single button or dial access to such shooting parameters such as white balance, shooting mode, metering mode, etc. I also felt very limited by the D40x not having an in-body focus motor that would allow me to use non AF-I/AF-S lenses (which are lenses without the focus motor built-in).
The Nikon D40x limitations were severe enough that I was about to consider purchasing a Canon 40D until the Nikon D90 appeared just in time.
PROS:
1. Fantastic set of separate buttons on the camera to control parameters like ISO, white balance, metering, autofocus, image quality, shooting mode, etc.
2. Two command dials
3. High resolution 920K pixel LCD screen (like the one on the Nikon D300)
4. 12.3 megapixel CMOS sensor
5. Low noise high ISO capability (for low light shooting) I can shoot ISO 1600 with good image quality with this camera, while on my D40x I could only shoot with ISO 400 and obtain acceptable IQ. I will even use ISO 3200 frequently with very usable results!
6. Separate top-viewing LCD screen in addition to the rear high res screen, to show shooting parameters constantly
7. In-body focus motor which allows the use of Nikon's non AF-I/S lenses, including wonderful and CHEAP prime lenses such as the Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (~$100 lens!)
8. Continuous shooting of 4.5 frames per second
9. Small size, although larger than the D40/D40x/D60, it is still substantially smaller in the hand than the D300/D3
10. 720p 24fps MPEG video shooting capability with incredible ability to use depth of field that I cannot achieve with my Sony High-Def camcorder.
11. Eleven auto-focus points (not as nice as the 51 points on the D300, but substantially better than my D40x with its 3 points)
12. GPS option
13. HDMI output
14. Enormous number of options to customize camera and shooting settings to fit your style of shooting
15. Fantastic image quality right out-of-box if you don't want to do any post processing
16. Terrific build quality
17. Top notch camera ergonomics (but this will be a very personal opinion that differs for each shooter)
CONS:
1. "Rolling shutter" phenomenon while recording video: The D90 CMOS sensor has the same problem that other CMOS video recorders have when recording video. If you move the camera, especially horizontally, you get a "jelly" or "rubberbanding" effect where the image wobbles significantly. It is nice to have the video features, which looks very sharp at 720p, but it is NOT a substitute for a video camera. If you use a tripod, and do not do quick zooms/pans, the video quality is excellent. Without a tripod, however, you may get nauseous watching a wobbly video. The sound is also in monoaural.
2. 1/200 flash synch: Not a problem for me, but it might be for you.
3. No weather sealing: This is found on the Nikon D300/D3 and even on similarly priced models from other camera companies
4. The buffer will fill up after about 8 continuous RAW + JPG (FINE) shots. This number differs depending on the shooting parameters that you will choose. If you shoot primarily JPG, the buffer seems to allow a very large number of continuous shots, but I have not quantified this for JPG only.
TIPS:
1. Get the FREE Nikon ViewNX software from Nikon's site as your 1st step in your workflow. This will let you examine your RAW images that you can process for either Nikon CaptureNX2 to do further RAW processing or just export to JPG or TIFF for a JPG/TIFF editor such as PhotoShop.
2. Recommend buying the Nikon CaptureNX2. It is a RAW converter (if you shoot in RAW) that will read the camera settings properly for export to JPG or TIFF. Capture NX2, however, is not as slick as the Adobe products and Capture NX2 requires a fairly powerful computer, otherwise it can run pretty slowly on a PC > 3 years old.
3. If you use JPEGs out-of-camera, consider increasing the sharpness above the default 3 or 4. Nikon uses a very conservative sharpening default setting. Nikon has also decided to change the default JPEG images to match the higher end D3/D700/D300 cameras which produce more neutral images. Consequently, the D90 images that are less punchy than the D40/D40x/D60/D80, so you may also want to turn up the in-camera saturation and contrast.
The Nikon D90 has all of the interface features that serious and even professional photographers need with wonderful image quality.
Wow! is all I can say....
Reviewed by: Earl E. A. Dopter, Louisiana Review Date: 2008-11-29
There are plenty of reviews out there, and I don't want to be redundant. So here are some helpful points that I had a hard time ferreting out when doing my research before pulling the trigger on this purchase, given that I was upgrading from a D60 and that I am, like many who are reading reviews on this product, not a professional:
1. I owned the D40, then the D60. So this is my third Nikon. I had trouble deciphering how my lenses, purchased for the D40/D60, would behave when used in this new model. The answer is that the D90 handles all of them perfectly. This includes lenses that have the HSM built in (the Hyper Sonic Motor is packaged in the lens, because the D40/D60 range doesn't have a built in auto-focus motor) as well as those with no internal motor. The D90 has an internal focus motor, so all lenses built for Nikon cameras will auto-focus, including the Nikon 50mm f1.8 lens that I had to manually focus in the D60.
2. The D90 is heavier, but certainly not uncomfortable to hold or carry. Weight will not be a discouraging factor in purchasing this camera.
3. The D90 takes different batteries, so any spares you have for the earlier models will not work on it. Battery life is truly outstanding. I am not even going to buy a spare battery.
4. The user interface is completely different from the D40/D60. I found it intuitive however. The functionality is just superb, much easier and more flexible. This is a pro level camera with the ease of use of a high end amateur camera.
5. Live view is a great enhancement. Really.
Overall, there is nothing I can say negative about the D90. It's everything I was hoping it would be, and it's so worth the money to upgrade. I'm selling the D60 for half what I paid - and doing it gladly - because the D90 is worth more than it's being sold for. I absolutely highly recommend it.
I also thought I would offer some lens advice, because I had trouble finding a reviewer that just cut to the chase and said "look, just do this." So, look, just do this: I do NOT recommend the kit lenses that you can obtain bundled with the D90. Get the body only, and buy yourself that Nikon 50mm f1.8 (Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras). It's a no-brainer at the price point, and the images I have already achieved have been just excellent. For the rest of your lenses, I highly recommend Sigma. I own the 18-200 (Sigma 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DC Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras), the 10-20 (Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras), and the 150-500 (Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 AF APO DG OS HSM Telephoto Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras). I cannot say enough positive things about the quality of the lenses or the images. Pack the 50mm and the 18-200 superlens for normal occasions. If you can stand the extra weight, you absolutely cannot go wrong with the 10-20 for landscapes, it just pulls in everything and the quality is shocking. The 150-500 is enormous, you are not going to want to carry that thing around, but when you need it, you really need it. I captured images of my son playing in a soccer game that blew me away; could not have gotten the shots without the big lens. Get the lenses in the order I have specified if you cannot afford them all.
I have just learned all this over the past 2 years. I am no expert but I have discovered the joy of capturing great images that you just cannot get from a point-and-shoot. I think once you see the quality you can achieve with a better camera, you will be thrilled with the decision to spend the money and the energy. And Nikon has truly produced the best camera at this price point in the world. It's a pro camera with an amateur price and it's very easy to use. Words really don't do it justice; you need to experience it to understand.
Any questions, please send me a comment. Happy to help!
Update - 16 Jul 2009:
I have now taken well over 4,000 images with the D90 and can confirm that it's still all I had hoped it would be. Every time I think of something I wish I could adjust, I find that the D90 has the adjustment capability in the menu somewhere. The active D-lighting is spectacular. The noiseless photos in low-light conditions have blown me away. I don't see myself upgrading from this camera for a very long time. My technique for most situations has become as follows: snap a few images using the Auto settings. Then switch to full manual and start playing with the depth of field by adjusting ISO, aperture, and shutter speed to fit the situation. Half the time, the Auto photos are so good that I can't do much to top them in manual mode!
Update - 20 Jan 2010:
Over 10,000 photos taken with my D90. No new lenses purchased since last update. I have yet to find a situation the D90 cannot handle deftly. Over Christmas, I took a family photo of my wife's entire extended family, over 40 people involved. It was indoors, at night, with only weak overhead lights and the lights from the Christmas tree behind the group. I used an ISO of 3500, my small Nikon 50mm lens at 1.8 aperture, and my remote control (so I could be in the photo too!) Under these low light conditions, with no flash, I was able to capture 50 images in a very short time, and miraculously got several with everyone smiling and no one blinking, and out of these one was perfect! The group included several young kids who hate standing still, to name one challenge! The output was startling; in the natural light, its almost ethereal. I'm the new family hero. The reality is that this single photo is irreplaceable and worth more than the camera and lens. It could not have been accomplished with a lesser camera/lens combination, including the previous Nikons I have owned. I would venture to say that no other camera in the price range could touch what I did with the D90 in this situation. Over and over, the camera proves its worth to me. In the end, what is one fabulous photograph of your child, your vacation, or your life's important events worth?
Update - 27 April 2010:
I noticed that I forgot to mention another very useful addition to the D90 - the remote control. This device allows you to remotely trigger the shutter and I find I use it for group shots much more often than the timer, especially because I can trigger multiple shots without returning to the camera. It's very inexpensive and small (I keep it in the little pouch that it comes with, threaded into the strap, so it's always there when I need it.) Here is the item: Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control for Nikon D40, D40x, D60, D80 & D90 Digital SLR Cameras. Highly recommended!
Update - 13 May 2010:
My D90 was stolen two weeks ago. What a bummer. Anyhow, I decided to upgrade to the D700, but not because there's anything wrong with the D90. I loved it. The D700 has the FX size sensor, whereas the D90 has the DX size sensor, which is smaller. The real benefit of the FX sensor is better sensitivity, meaning higher shutter speeds at a given aperture. Of course, the D700 is more sophisticated in nearly every way, but it's also heavier and more complex to operate. It's also over $2,000 for the body only. I sprang for it. But even so, after considering carefully all the current offerings, my conclusion is that for the money, there is still no better camera than the D90.
D90 a Big Step Up From the D40
Reviewed by: Shutterbug, Coeur d'Alene, ID USA Review Date: 2008-12-01
I just upgraded to the D90 from the D40 because I was tired of futzing with the white balance of the D40, and I wanted more low-light sensitivity (better ISO), as well as the flexibility of using faster lenses, many of which are not AF-S.
I have been very impressed with the D90. I'm comparing it to the D40. It takes significantly better pictures because of its larger dynamic range and better colors (ADR) and better white balance. The things that I think are important are ranked from most to least important.
1. Active D-lighting (ADR). This has gotten me photos with large dynamic ranges of light (highly shaded subjects with a bright background) that I would have otherwise botched. Also, we rent a house where they did a quick paint job in white, but there are splotches of beige and light green underneath. We've never successfully taken photos of this with the D40 or our point-and-clicks. The D90 pulls these out (without flash) to the point where it's easier to see them in the photo than by eye, and it nails the colors! I also suspect that the ADR is helping tame the noise at high ISO levels (see #3 below).
2. White Balance. The white balance is a big improvement over the D40, which botched AWB lots of times. If you look closely, it's not perfect, but close enough for all but the perfectionists, and the beauty is it works in Auto. That means that you can focus on taking pictures and not on fiddling with your settings so much. There's also a lot of flexibility to set your AWB defaults with a lot of precision.
3. Low light photography. I take a lot of shots indoors without flash. Until very recently, there weren't any f/1.4 prime lenses that were AF-S (needed on D40). The D90 helps in 2 ways: a) takes AF-D lenses and b) has better high ISO performance. I did controlled tests using my 55-200mm VR lens at 55mm (f/4) and looked at ISO sharpness and color on the D40 and D90. I did it in manual mode, following the exact procedure of Ken Rockwell (tripod, VR off, remote trigger). I find that the D90 is between 1 and 2 stops better ISO than the D40. D90/ISO 6400 is too dirty, but D90/3200 is pretty usable. With the D40 at ISO 800, the sharpness is slightly better than the D90 at 3200 (but worse than D90/1600), but there's a lot more out-of-control, day-old pizza look in dark sections with the D40 at 800 than the D90 at 3200 (I'm guessing that ADR is helping here). The D90's color starts to fade at little at ISO 1600, and drops more at 3200, then quite a bit at 6400.
4. The 11-point AF has helped get things in focus compared with the D40's 3 spots. AF also feels faster. Autofocusing is a big improvement.
5. I also really like that it's quicker changing ISO, WB and QUAL because of dedicated buttons. I've also set AF as my top choice under My Menu, making it 1 button away as well (hit the Fn button). This was another Rockwell suggestion.
6. The screen is amazing, as others have said. Also, you can navigate a zoomed image on the screen really fast.
7. I'm also looking forward to using my SB600 flash remotely in commander mode (you can't do that on the D40).
8. On the down-side, I've just discovered that some old Nikon manual-focus lenses from the 1960s will not mount on the D90, but they will on the D40. I don't think this should affect too many people.
Another observation: I'm not that familiar with the D300 and D700, but the D90 feels pretty solid compared to the D40. I thought that weight would help stabilize hand-held shots, but I also find that it's shutter is stronger than the D40, and that vibration tends to cancel out its heavier weight in terms of holding the camera still.
For someone who doesn't like to adjust the manual settings very much, the main benefits of the D90 over the D40 are the ADR and WB. These upgrades will probably appear in the D40 replacement in ~6 months. I might wait for that. For others who use their manual settings regularly, this is quite a camera.
A Camera for Soccer Mom and Taekwondo Dad
Reviewed by: Trader John, California, USA Review Date: 2008-10-26
I think most of us buying D90 would be someone like me. Goto review website for technical review and skip the rest. Read mine if you use it like I do. Here you go. Enjoy!
I have a D50 and just bot a D90. I shoot primary my daughters' school events usually indoor in a gym or threater. I have some of Nikon better F2.8 glasses. With indoor lighting and action such as TKD. The results are sometimes less than satisfactory. When using flash, the subject is well lit but the background would be dim. (you could solve this placing multiple flashes in the GYM like the professionals) when not using flash, you get hand shakes and motion blur. I shot my daughter's TKD blackbelt test yesterday, the D90 blew me away. Here is what it does, on Sport mode with Flash, it selected ISO 1100, F4 and 1/60. subject is well lit, the back kick is frozen to show the form, the foreground and background of the GYM were well lit. The white balance is perfect. I could not have done a matter job myself in manual mode! At the same sport mode, D50 chose ISO 500, F5.6 and 1/60. The subject is well lit, the gym background faded into darkness. When not using flash, D50 just can't get the white balance correct no matter how i set it. D90 white balance was perfect.
The D90 giant colorful LCD really tells instantlly if I have got the shot. I would buy D90 again just for catching the highlights of my daughter's belt test.
D90 is actually the same size of D50. D50 felt more comfortable in my hands initially, but after 3 hrs, the D90 felt just better. It could be a weight issue. I don't know why.
So bye bye to my wonderful D50. Hello to D90.
Further edit:
After a few weeks, it is clear Active D lighting works wonder. It lights up details which are lost when using a Canon 5D without post-processing. I would buy it again just for that. The custom FUNC is also a welcome addition. I set it to open my favorite menus making everything fast. I used to use flash whenever indoor. You don't need to do that in most cases anymore. I shot Halloween at Hollywood Blvd, pictures have good color and exposure using available light. It was unimageable with the D50.
Good shooting!
The ultimate semi-pro or prosumer camera!
Reviewed by: C. Mann, Avon, CT Review Date: 2009-05-11
After reading recommendations here as well as heeding Ken Rockwell's advice, FINALLY, after several years of indecisiveness between the Nikon D80, D200 and D300, the D90 really stood out for price/performance - I made the plunge. I paired this D90 with the Nikon 18-200 mm lens and the Santechi LCD battery grip, as well as a Delkin silicone body skin and a B+W UV multi-coated filter as well as a Nikon SB-600 speedlight flash. Every part of the camera and lens is now fully protected. ( A slight bit of trimming on the Delkin skin was necessary, along the bottom of the skin, so I could put the LCD battery grip on. Delkin states you can't put a battery grip on with their skin. But if you trim a bit of the skin then it fits perfectly! So no worries there. Get the Delkin skin. It is well worth it!) As a complete unit, it functions beautifully. Speaking about just the camera here, it is ridiculously easy to use, very intuitive, a well thought out design, well balanced, with enough heft, yet light enough for all that it offers. The pictures rendered, and the bright, 3" LCD screen on the back of the camera makes it wonderful to use. The menus are thoughtfully laid out. As for the video mode, it works just fine with the Nikon 18-200 mm lens. Best used in video mode for fixed distance videoing. I vidoed my future son-in-law fishing waist deep in a local river. The video came out excellent. Remember, this is a camera first. Not a video cam. But having the video option is nice, as you have everything within one camera body. This camera is certainly worthy as a semi-pro entry; maybe even as a back-up camera to a Nikon D3 or D3X for a professional photographer. I think the D40 or the newer D5000 would be a better choice for light users who want a few more features than a simple point-and-shoot camera, but who have no intention of really delving into photography and learning all the terminology and techniques involved in lighting, exposure compensation, picture composition, etc. But, if you are serious about photography and want room to grow, or you are a photo enthusiast, semi-pro or pro, you would be hard pressed to find a camera with a better price/functionality point. I purchased my D90 through Amazon via J&R Music, as they had the best price and had the D90 in stock. I received the camera a day after the order was placed. In less than 2 weeks I had taken nearly 1700 shots. I have taken early dawn, early twilight, late night, portrait, nature, time exposures, double exposures, and sports photos in that time. It is nearly impossible to take a bad picture with this camera. It is easy and a pleasure to set up. Once you take the necessary time to learn the camera and all that it can do, you will understand what a joy it is to own this camera. I highly recommend visiting the KenRockwell.com site to become well-educated on photography in general as well as getting a crash course with a simple, no-nonsense approach regarding the workings of the D90 -- well beyond all the sometimes useless and verbose language the Nikon manual for the D90 employs.
Bottom Line: The Nikon D90 is nearly impossible to beat right now for the price/function point. TIP: Invest in high quality lens/lenses as it/they will do more for you than the camera, as far as giving you quality pictures. Great pictures are more about proper lighting and exposure than the camera or the lens. Those things merely make it easier for getting that great shot. The photographer is responsible for the composition of the shot. Learn the proper way to compose and you will be well on your way to productive and enjoyable photography!
7 New — prices too low to display (click "More Info" or "Add to Cart" button to see prices)
5 Used from $743.99
May Be Eligible for SuperSaver Free Shipping
The new flagship of the EOS Rebel line, Canon EOS Rebel T2i brings professional EOS features into an easy to use, lightweight digital SLR that's a joy to use. Featuring a class-leading 18.0 Megapixel CMOS Image Sensor and increased light sensitivity for low light photography, the EOS Rebel T2i also has an advanced HD Movie mode for gorgeous Full HD movies. Able to capture up to 3.7 frames per second, it's ready to go the minute it's picked up. Advanced Live View, a new wide-area screen, plus features like Canon's brilliant Auto Lighting Optimizer and Highlight Tone features ensure brilliant photos and movies, easily. With some of the most advanced features of any digital SLR, it's simply the best Rebel Canon has ever created.
18.0-megapixel CMOS (APS-C) sensor; DIGIC 4 Image Processor for high image quality and speed
Body only; lenses sold separately
ISO 100-6400 (expandable to 12800) for shooting from bright to dim light; enhanced 63-zone, Dual-layer metering system
Improved EOS Movie mode with manual exposure control and expanded recording 1920 x 1080 (Full HD)
Reviewed by: Robert Stone, Midwest / Ohio Review Date: 2010-04-17
I just got this camera today (finally an available body only since I have no use for the kit lens) and I am awed. I had done a lot of research on this before buying it so I knew what to expect in terms of both the big upgrade issues as well as the little tweaks they have done, some of which turn out to be really terrific. If you are coming from another Canon the menus and interface will be second nature. Based on another very positive review just posted, coming from Nikon it's also an easy step. Here are some early observations:
The Best:
A huge bump in ISO. This was one of the two main reasons I upgraded from my trusty (and still good) XSI. I have made some test shots and despite going up to an 18 MP sensor the noise is not much of an issue and I shot several pics at ISO 3200 which look quite good. I then shot some in 6400 which did start to show some noise in the low light but still made for serviceable pictures. I am looking forward to seeing what it will do around a campfire at an upcoming camping trip with my daughter! My XSI despite a F/2.8 lens could not do much with that in the past.
The other main draw for me was video. I dream of being able to bring just one camera to, say, Disney and have it do double duty and I think this one may do it. So far, I have only shot a couple scenes in fairly low light and focus is a bit of a challenge but by zooming in and allowing the camera to come to focus before the shot it is manageable. I expect this to not be as much of an issue in brighter light. Be sure to enable auto focus during video in the menu - I suspect it is disabled by default due to the noise many lenses make with focusing as that would be recorded as well. I have two USM / "L" lenses so that should not be a problem for me but your milage may vary. I also plan to try some manual focusing. Keep in mind that video clips for full 1080P 30 FPS are limited to about 12 minutes - I worried about this a bit until I realized that when I edit my videos shots are rarely longer than 4 minutes (and of that I usually keep just 2 or less). That said, this camera is not the one to choose to record, say, a stage production. For that a dedicated video camera able to record an hour or more at a time is a must.
The Good:
Better Live View - Live view mode is now much more accessible and in more modes.
Sensor Size - 18 MP sensor is nice for cropping and taking full advantage of "L" glass if you have it. Other than that, this is not a major draw from my perspective. I would actually have preferred this be a 12 MP camera allowing low-noise great pics to, say, over 20000 ISO.
Memory Type - This camera uses SD type cards including the new ultrahigh capacity cards. I know it is a small matter but I like being able to use the cards I have rather than having to but some expensive CF cards (such as used by the 7D). Keep in mind that they recommend Class 6 or higher cards for video (I got a couple 16 GB Class 10 cards for about $40 each which should fit the bill). I'll use my older cards just for stills.
Stereo Mic Input - This allows the option of using a better mic than the built in mic. I may never take advantage of that but I suspect I will, actually. Of course, inclusion of a stereo mic would have been even better!
Misc - A lot of little things about this camera already impress me. For example, they moved the "no flash" setting on the main dial to right next to full auto and my most used setting "portrait" mode and away from the far end since they realized a lot of people use it (that's according to a video I saw online with a Canon employee). There are a lot of little touches like that which I have already noticed.
The Bad: (really not so bad in many ways)
The build quality is not 7D (which I have just handled at a store). The magnesium body on that bad boy just makes it feel very solid and by comparison the T2i does feel not cheap but does feel light. On the other hand less weight is good (especially at places like Disney) and this camera is appropriately being labeled a "baby 7D" in terms of sensor chip, etc. Of course, having an extra $1000 in your pocket (or not on your charge card) is another huge advantage over the 7D.
It is not a full frame camera. This means there is a "crop factor" due to the chip size which effectively multiplies by 1.6 the focal length of lens you are using (as compared to 35 mm film cameras or full-frame cameras like the 5D Mk II. Since I was coming from an XSI which of course is also a smaller sensor for me there is no transition to make here.
In summary, I am VERY pleased with this purchase and expect this to be my camera body until my ultimate camera is released (full frame, stereo mic, uses SD cards, useable ISO to >100,000 all for under $1000 - I know, I know this is a pipe dream now but an (old) kid can dream, can't he?)
UPDATE: I have had this camera for a couple weeks now and have had the opportunity to shoot hundreds of pictures and quite a few videos. I am still very impressed. Stills are great and the focusing is markedly improved over the XSI. The only blurry shots I get are when panning to follow my dogs running among trees - to the sensor the trees seem to be moving and are deemed the subject - stopping down the lens to increase DOF (or just taking a whole bunch of pictures) is the easy fix.
Now, regarding video. It is more challenging than I thought to use a DSLR camera for video. This is more an ergonomic issue with the form factor for the camera than any issue with the T2i itself. Video is of course composed by looking at the LCD screen and so the camera must be held out a bit - and with the weight of a good lens it gets pretty heavy in contrast to typical small camcorders of today. Thinking about it, modern video cameras have gotten to this stage of evolution after over 20 years (anyone remember the old VHS camcorders?), so I guess it is to be expected there would be a difference. Focus is not quick like it is with a good video camera but seems best achieved to me anyway with manual focus. The large, bright LCD screen helps in this regard. The quality of the resulting video is excellent. Although I don't see this as replacing my Sony HD video camera for day-to-day and holiday recording I do think that it will be useable to take the role of both still and video camera during an upcoming trip to Disney. I also suspect as I get more used to it that the ease of use will increase further and perhaps one day it will be my only video camera. Overall, this is a great product and I remain very pleased.
As a side note, if you happen to have any 16 GB Class 10 SD cards from AData (as I did) please check out reviews before trusting them with the recording of any important pictures / video.
Love it!!!
Reviewed by: Luke D. Neumann, Review Date: 2010-04-14
T2i is amazing. Whether you want a nice HD camera for fun, to take some pictures, to start a Photo/Video business or to produce an Indie Film...the T2i is a great option for the price. If used correctly the Video can come out looking VERY Cinematic. Slap on a nice L Series lens, shoot in 24p and use a Glidetrack for some dolly shots and you won't believe the results.
I loved it so much I bought a second one. My only gripe is the sound and the lack of manual control in that area...but I record all of my audio on an external device anyways so it's not THAT big of a deal. It's just that, every once in a while I'd like to go out and throw on any old mic and get some decent audio...and I have yet to really do that.
Small gripe for me personally. You may need to invest in a Rode Shotgun mic to get some decent audio if you don't record externally.
My First DSLR and love it! If you love hiking don't pass this camera up.
Reviewed by: R. Oden, Review Date: 2010-04-19
For a person who has never touched a SLR/DSLR in his life I must say I am learning fast. This is also only my 12th day with the camera. Out of the box its in Auto mode which I used for my first coupe hundred hiking shots (almost all my photography is done while hiking in the great northwest.) I quickly moved to P mode and now am using a Tamron 18mm to 270mm lens (heavier but much better than the kit lens) with a Polarized Circular filter. The image quality is truly amazing and the camera + lens was much lighter than I thought it would be. Hiking a 10 mile day with a lowpro hip back (or attached to my Osprey hip belt) I hardly notice the camera is there. I spent months looking for a good camera to weight ratio as it matters on my extended hikes. After looking at several of the 4/3 camera's such as the Olympus EP-1, Panasonic GF1, as well as the Canon G11(not 4/3's) I realized that the T2i was not much more weight. Yes, when you include the Tamron lens on top of the Camera body you are looking at aprox. 2x the weight of the Panasonic GF1 but you are dealing with a much better sensor, its cheaper when you look at comparable lenses, and (not that I have gotten to test it first hand) but I hear that the image stabilization is much better. So, for the 12th day owning this camera, being a complete amateur with DSLR's I have to hand it to Canon for building an awesome camera that will keep me entertained for years.
**Don't forget your local camera shops** -I picked mine up from Kenmore Camera (body only) for the same price as all the online prices plus I got to speak with real photography geeks who know there stuff and let me try 5 different camera's and a TON of different lens combination's. After 45 minutes of trial and error this was the camera for me. They even threw in a free 3 hour training session.
Great Improvements over T1i
Reviewed by: Shane M. Long, Review Date: 2010-05-26
I just sold my T1i to upgrade to the T2i. For me it was the right decision. Not only is the screen wider and the menus refined, but the new 64 metering zone and new sensor made a big difference. Most notably in the grain at ISOs 1600 and 3200. I am amazed that I can take very usable photos at 3200 that have great color and relatively little noise.
The only thing I wish the T2i had the the T1i has is 720p video at 30fps. The 60fps of the T2i makes for very large files. My class 6 Transcend card can not keep up with it so I got a Sand Disc Extreme III and now it writes videos just fine.
In the end image quality is my number one priority and the T2i delivers clean, sharp, brilliant images every time.
great camera, 1080p video, RAW, 18mp, CRAZY ISO FOR THE PRICE!!!
Reviewed by: Fotoflix, USA Review Date: 2010-04-13
NEGATIVES: well, Nikon RAW works on my computer, why doesn't canon RAW??? i'm running win7 x64 professional. why canon is oblivious to release an x64 working codec is beyond me. WTF???? come on Canon? come on Adobe?
DOES ANYONE HAVE A SOLUTION??????????????? PLEASE HELP???????? I MISS RAW
- not really a negative, but plan on upgrading your computer. my 3.4GHZ Intel Q6600 quad core w/ 4GB of ram seems to stutter when working with these HUGE images... the HD video from this camera makes my computer cry. The core i7 extreme is looking better and better everyday.
- if you are shooting with a 2006 camera like I was, be prepared to look at your computer (that might seem fast) and wonder what happened? you are now looking at 24mb RAW files, compared to RAW files < 5mb (i.e., Nikon D80 anyone?).
POSITIVES:
Everything is suburb, and excellent quality. I'm coming from a Nikon D80 and the controls and UI are a lot more efficient and effective with the t2i. The screen on this thing is crazy goood, best i've seen yet...everything is just so intuitive.
IF YOU BUY, get the largest and fastest SDHC cards you can afford. 8GB seems like the new 2GB. i'm not looking at anything less than 32GB. Seriously.
I can't speak for video yet, but check this out: [...]
yeah I know a crew worked day and night to get that done, but it was on this body..
This Rebel and I are both waiting until the new 5Dmk3 comes out, but until then we are having a fabulous time shooting everything we see in RAW through the kit lens, 50mm 1.8, 24-70 2.8L USM, and the new 70-200 2.8L MK2 IS USM. This is a great camera.
O, btw, I swtiched from Nikon. I'm finding the UI of Canon's bodies better than that of Nikon. Everything is easy to get to and change, unlike Nikons where you have to dive into menu after menu just to change something simple like ISO or WB. maybe i'm biased because i've only worked with the Nikon D80 before this camera.
I was first skeptical about the build quality, but upon further analysis, this thing is a tank for a little DSLR.
... i'm glad I switched to Canon! I'll be even more happy when the 5dmk3 comes out (in like 1-2 years)... and really take advantage of my glass collection.
17 New — prices too low to display (click "More Info" or "Add to Cart" button to see prices)
12 Used from $537.99
Canon EOS Rebel T1i Digital SLR Camera Features
The Journey Continues. Canon's new EOS Rebel T1i is packed with features, both refined and new. In addition to its admirable performance with an all-new 15.1 Megapixel Canon CMOS sensor, DIGIC 4 Image Processor, a 3.0-inch Clear View LCD with anti-reflective and scratch-resistant coating, and compatibility with the EOS System of lenses and Speedlites, the EOS Rebel T1i adds remarkable Full HD video capture at resolutions up to 1920 x 1080. An HDMI port allows for quick connections to high definition TVs and monitors for easy viewing of your stills and video. The entire operation is simple and easy even if you are a beginner. You'll have uncompromised EOS Digital performance with power and flexibility right in the palm of your hand.
High Resolution Still Capture New 15.1 Megapixel CMOS sensor with DIGIC 4 Image Processor for faster processing of fine detail and natural color reproduction, 14-bit A/D conversion for smooth color tones and gradations.
Canon's CMOS (complementary metal oxide semiconductor) sensor captures images with exceptional clarity and tonal range and offers the most pixels in its class. It offers many of the same new technologies as used by Canon's professional cameras to maximize each pixel's light gathering efficiency. Its APS-C size sensor creates an effective 1.6x field of view (compared to 35mm format). Canon's DIGIC 4 Image Processor dramatically speeds up all camera operations for intuitive operation and offers improvements in both fine detail and natural color reproduction. It works in concert with the EOS Rebel T1i's image sensor to achieve unprecedented levels of performance in all lighting situations.
DIGIC 4 Image Processor With the EOS Rebel T1i, analog to digital signal conversion is executed by a 14-bit processor, which generates digital data with incredibly smooth tones. A feature that originally appeared in top-of-the-line pro digital SLR cameras, th
New 15.1-megapixel CMOS sensor with DIGIC 4 Image Processor
Body only; lenses sold separately
Full HD video capture at 1920 x 1080 resolution; HDMI output
3.0-inch Clear View LCD; Live View Function for stills (Quick, Live and Face Detection AF modes) and video
Capture images and video to SD/SDHC memory cards (not included)
A wonderfully full-featured camera at an unbeatable price
Reviewed by: Rimesh Patel, Washington D.C. Review Date: 2009-04-29
I've had the T1i for about almost week now and after some extensive use, here are my thoughts:
1. 15.1 megapixel sensor. Yes, the high megapixel count is impressive, but keep in mind that, as you approach higher resolutions, you need to ensure the lens on the SLR can resolve that much detail. Sadly, the included 18-55mm IS lens is functional, but the high resolution really shows the so-so quality of the lens. Even if taken at the proper focus, pictures can appear soft with this kit lens. Shots I have taken with Canon EF-S 17-85mm and EF 70-200mm L lenses are crisp. I don't have any gripes on image quality. There are some issues with noise on the higher ISOs that don't seem to show up on the Nikon digitals, but overall, the quality is amazing for the price. Skin tones, textures, colors are reproduced very accurately.
2. Digic 4. The Digic 4 processor appears to process/save the 15 megapixel images in the same time (if not faster) than the Digic III processor on the XSi (even in RAW+Jpg mode). I have also noticed that at higher ISOs, the sensor and the Digic 4 produce images with less overall noise compared with its predecessors.
3. LCD. The 920,000 pixel LCD screen is large (3"), crisp, vibrant and fully visible even in bright sunlight. In comparison, the Canon XSi SLR (which the T1i replaces), also has a 3" LCD, but with 230,000 pixels. The viewing angle is great as well and the LCD can easily be seen nearly 180 degrees around.
4. ISO 12800. Canon and Amazon are correctly identifying that the T1i maxes out at ISO 3200. Some less reputable dealers are listing an ISO 12800, which you should disregard. The ISO 6400 and 12800 settings are expanded ISO settings. The pictures taken on these two settings are ISO 3200 images pushed to ISO 6400 or 12800 by the Digic 4 chip before saving to the memory card. These pictures are extremely grainy and contain a lot of noise to the point of only being usable as for snapshots or adding an artistic effect to certain compositions.
5. Penta-mirror. That Canon is still using one in the T1i is disappointing. The penta-mirror viewfinder image is functional, but still noticeably darker than that of the penta-prism viewfinder in the Nikon D90 (which is the T1i's main competitor). I really would have preferred if Canon had kept the XSi's 12.2 megapixel sensor, forgone 1080p video altogether, and maybe upped the cost of the camera slightly to cover the production cost of using a penta-prism in the T1i. Honestly, unless you are massively cropping your images, or creating large photos, the difference between 12.2 and 15.1 megapixels really is negligible.
6. Size. This is the same body as the XSi, and therefore a bit on the smaller side compared to other digital SLRs. I have small hands, so the T1i is comfortable for me. If you have big hands, I can see this being a very difficult camera to use over an extended period of time. If you haven't handled a Canon XT, XTi or XSi, I would suggest you go to a store and hold the T1i yourself before purchasing it online. (I will upload a picture of the T1i in my hands to the user gallery for a size reference.)
7. HD Video. Yes, the Canon marketing department made a horrible marketing decision and pushed the T1i onto shelves limiting the 1080p recording to 20fps (frames per second). Recognize this as a marketing gimmick that allows them put a 1080p sticker on the camera box. The 1080p @ 20fps is fine most times, but seems a choppy if you have a lot of action in the frame or are panning quickly. The T1i's 720p video is recorded at 30fps and is clean, smooth, and sufficient for all but the most discerning consumers. One major criticism though is that the sound is recorded in mono, AND there is NO input for an external microphone.
A lot of pre-production reviews of the T1i criticize its inability to automatically autofocus while recording. I wouldn't put much weight in this criticism, mostly because neither of the other two SLR cameras with HD recording capabilities (Canon 5D Mark II and Nikon D90) can automatically autofocus while recording either. What you can do with the T1i is pan/zoom the lens and then press the AE lock (*) button to make the camera autofocus on the new subject (all while recording). A problem with using the AE lock button to have the camera autofocus is that the microphone for the camera is on the front upper left of the body near the lens mount. Therefore, the lens motor noise is picked up just as much as ambient sounds. Even with my quietest Canon USM (ultasonic motor) lenses, this lens motor sound is pretty loud in video playback. Although, remember, you can always manually turn the focusing ring on the lens to get your subject back into focus. It's not easy, but after a little practice, it's not all too hard, either.
Ultimately, you shouldn't let the HD recording limitations sway you one way or the other. This is an SLR camera -- not a video camera. The HD video is a great feature, but if you're looking for something primarily to take video, look elsewhere. There are much better, cheaper VIDEO cameras out there which can record true 1080p.
8. Record button. For some reason, the record video button is next to the LCD screen (the same button used for direct printing). The first few times you take video, you'll intuitively find yourself using the shutter release button used to take pictures. The reason for this switch is that you can take a still picture while recording video, although, doing so will interrupt the recording.
9. Battery life. My first fully charged battery only lasted about 250 shots (no flash), but all charges since have given me in the range of 500-700 shots per charge. I'm guessing the first charge had such a short life because I spent quite a bit of time learning the camera, its menus, and settings.
10. Live View. I honestly can't review this as I haven't used it too much yet -- I prefer using the viewfinder. One feature I can say is nice is that, on the LCD, you can digitally zoom in (up to 10x) on a section of your shot to ensure it is properly focused. This, and the fine focusing, can really help if you're into macro-photography.
11. HDMI cable. The T1i has an HDMI Type C output on the body to allow you to directly display pictures and video on an HDTV. A minor criticism is that the HDMI Type C cable is not included in the box. You have to buy it separately. It would have been nice if it were included, as it's not an expensive cable.
Conclusion. The T1i is a bit on the light end, yet the construction still feels solid. For the camera's price point, you'd be hard pressed to find any digital SLR out there which gives you all the capabilities and growth range of the Canon T1i. The camera is intuitive enough for those new to photography to pick and learn easily, yet configurable enough for advanced amateurs. If video is not a big deal for you, then get the Canon XSi. There is very little the T1i has (other than ISO 3200 and a sharper screen) that the XSi doesn't. Plus, with the release of the T1i, you can probably pick up a used XSi for a great price on eBay. My wife recently gave birth, and I'm not looking to record endless (never to be watched) tapes of video footage of our son, but I do want several minute clips of him as he grows through the years. I've always been more inclined towards photography, so this camera gives me a very versatile digital SLR that I need with the wonderful capability of recording HD video that I want.
First hands on experience...Very positive!
Reviewed by: Hiram Grant, Review Date: 2009-04-29
Here's a quick, first impressions (from hands on shooting) of the Rebel T1i. Although we'll need more scientific examinations to determine ultimate image quality and usability, I'll try to give a hint into the camera's potential.
I'll not go in to any real detail on the kit lens, which has been well reviewed. Let's just agree that $100 for a good quality IS (image stabalized) lens is a very reasonable value it you don't have another option. There are no obvious reasons this kit lens should make or break your choice of this camera over a competitor's.
Styling and build wise, the T1i is an XSi made over, which is not a bad thing. Some found that camera to be a bit on the small size for their hands, or a bit lacking in weight, but most like the size and weight (include me). It uses the same, proven battery and accessories of the XSi. I've already used some generic batteries that worked well in an XSi, with similar good results, but I do not want to lump all generics in the "good to go" category.
In using the camera, the first thing you'll notice over the previous Rebels in the marvelous LCD screen. Yep, the images look much cleaner even at the original size. Don't get confused if you compare this camera side-by-side and think it's images are all that much better. They just look much better on such a sharp LCD.
First looks at IQ (Image Quality) were very impressive. I tried using the camera in a variety of situtations (biased to how I would use it), and got very good results throughout. Focusing was typical for a better Rebel, and images looked good throughout the ISO range, based on reasonable expectations. I thought the Auto White Balance is a very good job compared to previous results I'd had with Canons in general. They weren't perfect, but the tungsten areas seemed to look better than average. All in all, I'd say Canon made reasonable progress with the jump to 15 meg, but probably no reason to trade-in your XSi.
Live View never has been one of my biggest thrills, but the sharp LCD makes it a bit more enjoyable. If I was still shooting macros, I would like it much more.
But the biggest advantage of the newer screen for some will be while shooting videos. I only did videos in the 1080p mode, and was impressed by the quality. Sound was OK, and I was a bit disappointed that Canon doesn't have an option audio input (ala the 5D mkII or camcorders with intellegent shoe). I'm also not sure how practical the videos will be, considering they aren't using a "direct to HiDef player" format like AVCHD or AVCHD Lite. Also, 20fps is a bit odd for 1080p, but their software does support frame grapping, which should give nice 4x6 prints (there's a bit more than 2meg per frame). The 720p is recorded in a more standard 30fps, which should also help with moving subjects. You can also shoot a full 15meg image while recording your videos. You videos are interrupted for about a second (you'll see a still image for that length in the video playback), but the high quality image will be recorded in its own file (no need to frame grab). BTW, autofocusing did work during this recording, but the noise was picked up by the mic.
OK, so I liked the camera, but how would I rate it compared to the competition. Well, compared to the XSi, it's better, but maybe not worth the money. The LCD is grand (that alone would get my money), and it's a no brainer if you need video or shoot lots of macros. But with resent price drops and combo deals from Canon, the XSi should still be strong based on value.
I've also had a bit of experience with the new Nikon D5000 (but even less so). Although initial pricing is about $50 higher on the T1i, I thought the Canon was clearly more interesting. I like the way Sony incorporated an articulated LCD, but hate it on the D5000. I was constantly setting the camera down with the LCD back being the first thing to touch. You might never break it, but you'll surely scratch the cosmetics. The D5000 doesn't have the motor built into the body, so there's a bit of a limitation to lens. However, the biggest drawback was that the D5000's built-in flash doesn't support their wireless flash system (with their new lineup, we'll have to move up to the D90). The D5000 really needs to be lined up against the XSi, not the T1i.
The 14mp Sony Alpha 350 might be a good value oriented competitor (when Sony offers bundles), but the IQ of the Canon's CMOS sensor is probably better in most moderate to low light conditions. I think you'll be seeing something soon to replace this model.
Thus, it's prime competitors should be Canon's own XSi, the D5000 (especially if they drop the price about $100 more), and for those with a bit more money, the Nikon D90.
The T1i carries on the tradition of Canon Rebels with a lot of "curbside appeal" matched with solid performance.
Amazing Camera - Canon Rules
Reviewed by: H. Lakshminarayan, Los Angeles Review Date: 2009-06-14
My Requirements for a DSLR were as below:
1. High Resolution LCD Screen.
2. Great/Easy to use - User Interface.
3. HD Video - 720 (30FPS) - (1080 was optional for me).
4. Live View.
5. Amazing Image Quality.
6. Comprehensive Software Package.
7. Large Variety of Lens options.
8. Performance.
9. Obviously, Cost (<1000$).
In the curent market, i narrowed down to 2 cameras - Canon EOS 500D/T1i or Nikon D5000 (Since i trust both brands for amazing image quality).
Canon EOS 500D Scored over Nikon in below areas:
1. LCD Screen 3inch 920,000 dot compared to Nikon's 2.7inch 230,000. For me high resolution screen is very important to enjoy the pics in the camera itself and obviously for better judgement of the focus. I bet, you will fall in love with T1i, immidietly after seeing pics in its brilliant LCD screen.
2. I verified both Ti1 and D5000 user interface and i felt T1i's user interface/menus were well organised keeping in mind of the entry level DSLR users. Again i love this on T1i.
3. I have seen many people complaining about T1i's 1080 (20 FPS) HD video. But Nikon doesn't even have this feature. And T1i has HD video 720 at 30 FPS which is a treat to eyes when you see it on HDTV. But Nikon provides 720 at just 24 FPS.
4. Both has Live View - Here T1i has the advantage of better resolution screen and D5000 has Lower resolution vari angle screen. My preferenece was high resolution screen.
5. Image Quality, I am very very happy about the Super sharp images of Canon T1i. My interest is mainly Macro and Landscape. And T1i gives me Amazing Quality images (I don't believe much in camera reviews) combined with Canon's brilliant lenses.
6. Canon's provides the best - with camera software package. Digital Photo Professional, EOS Utility, Photostitch and many more are very simple to use and powerful tools and provides necessary inventory for more than basic image editing (Don't compare this with specialized photo editing tools like Adobe Photoshop).
7. Again Canon has the most comprehensive Lens set to choose compared to Nikon (Again don't bring in the theory of 3rd party lenses). I own the kit lens, Canon 100mm Macro, Canon 10mm super wide angle. And these leses combined with T1i produce breathtaking images.
8. When it comes to performance, T1i has got very great start up time, fast focus and good continious burst (9RAW/170 JPEGS at 3.4 FPS) which satisfies my needs. Nikon D5000 can shoot at 4FPS.
9. Cost wise, T1i is cheaper than Nikon D90 and Canon 50D.
I have read many reviews comparing T1i and D5000, saying Nikon has better Low light performance. It may be true, but T1i produces brilliant pics till ISO3200 (Nikon may produce little better than this at same ISO range), but I use my camera very less for low light photograpy and Canon T1i's JPEG quality in normal light is a very sharp, captures more detail due to its 15MP resolution and it is better than that of Nikon D5000.
Handling wise i never felt T1i as bad. It has a great grip and due to its less weight, it is very portable compared to Nikon D5000.
Final word:
For my use/requirements Canon T1i fits perfectly and it produces Amazing Super sharp images with market leading feature set for an Entry level DSLR. T1i has many improvements compared to that of 450D XSi keeping the similar (Better JPEG quality - compared to both 450D XSi and 50D) image quality and it is way ahead of Nikon D5000.
Hats off to Canon for giving a Brilliant Entry Level DSLR again.
Real reasons for getting this over the Nikon D5000
Reviewed by: Kalendae, Review Date: 2009-05-14
If you are upgrading and already own Canon or Nikon lenses, you should stick with your brand, the differences between these two cameras should not be enough to cause you to switch, otherwise read on.
First I will list the commonly wrong reasons to pick one over the other:
1) Image Quality - Not because image quality is not important, but because the image quality difference between these two cameras is too minimal to have it be a reason. They are essentially equally great with respect to image quality.
2) Megapixel Count - 15 megapixels is indeed qualitatively better than 6 megapixels, but 15mp (t1i) and 12mp (5000D) from similar sized sensors is again not much real difference. There are point and shoots with higher megapixel counts on tiny ccd sensors, doesn't mean they are better. Again, image quality of the d5000 and t1i are both great and is no reason to pick one over the other.
3) 1080p video - The t1i has it at 20fps, the d5000 doesn't have it at all. But the 20 fps on the t1i renders this essentially pointless. The human eye needs about 24fps for the illusion of smooth continuity. If you will be using video, you can consider both 720p.
Now for what I believe are valid but minor reasons to pick one over the other:
1) LCD difference: canon's is almost double the resolution and bigger, nikon's can swivel out. I prefer the higher res and bigger size to the swivel. The higher res is very important as you will be able to tell if a shot had problems that you couldn't at lower res. This is really an important factor that is hard to emphasize in words but makes a huge difference once you see it.
2) movie mode differences: nikon d5000 is fully manual here including for the focus. the canon is fully auto here including a pretty slow and disruptive auto focus. For an SLR you WANT manual control, especially of aperture so you can control the depth of field to make videos that are less home video looking and more 'artsy'. If you wanted full auto, get a point and shoot that does video. Fortunately for canon, there are workarounds to be able to control aperture, but they are a hassle. But my opinion is to get the Canon based on the auto focus. It is not really useable during movie capture (loud slow and disruptive), but you can atleast use it before hand to get focus. It brings quite a bit of convenience. And you can look on the web for hack ways to manually control the aperture. The Canon is also 30fps at 720p compared to 24fps at 720p for the nikon. You can get a 25% slow motion effect with the canon without going under 24fps, where as with the nikon doing any slow motion will mean choppy frames (under 24fps).
Everything else I feel comes down to personal factors like form factor, feel in hand etc.
Best technology for the money
Reviewed by: J. Retika, Fremont, CA USA Review Date: 2009-05-13
I consider myself an above average amateur, and I want to share why I decided to buy the T1i. I know the concept of white-balance, aperture, speed, and metering, and I've experimented with them on my Point & Shoot camera (Canon G2).
My budget is in the $800-$1000 range, and I narrowed down my selections to Canon T1i, Nikon D5000/D90, and Pentax K20D. I wasn't worried too much about who has the best image quality. I felt that all 4 cameras (should) produce excellent results for most cases.
I'm a big fan of technology, and I'm willing to spend money to get latest technology (well.. as long as it's within my budget). I mean, if I just want good quality image, I'd go with Nikon D40/D60 or Canon XSi.
I based my decision on user reviews and professional reviews, dpreview.com and the like.
Pentax K20D has weather sealed body and in-body image stabilization, but they're not must-have features to me. It's reported to have slow focus, which is a deal-breaker.
Nikon D5000 has the same CMOS sensor as D90's, which has better DxOMark (better dynamic range, better low-light ISO) than Canon's 50D sensor, the same one in Canon T1i. But it only has 2.7-inch/230-kpixel LCD, not to mention 0.78x viewfinder magnification (compare to T1i's 0.87x).
dSLR buyers be warned: you just don't use LCD for focusing, it's too slow. D5000's swiveling LCD is a hard sell to me.
Nikon D90 has better sensor, and pentaprism viewfinder. It can capture more frames/second (4.5 vs T1i's 3.4). It also has more AF area (11 vs T1i's 9). I mostly use single-focus point, so more focus points is not that useful to me. I plan to experiment with RAW capture, and Nikon charges extra for its RAW converter software (NX2 $180 MSRP).
For $799 (body only), I feel that T1i gives the best & latest dSLR technology for the money:
3-inch 920-kpixel LCD, fast focus, free RAW converter software, latest DIGIC4, HDMI. 1080p/720p video is a bonus.
I'm not too crazy for the 15-Mpix, but now when I take pictures,I don't worry much about zooming on my subject,
knowing I can crop the image later.
Again, all 4 cameras take excellent pictures. It's the non-image-quality features that got me sold on T1i.
Be prepared to have a steep learning curve
on white-balance/metering/ISO etc. Don't expect a $900 dSLR to give you excellent image everytime
on full-auto. You'll need to learn to use it. Oh, and get the $100 50mm f/1.8 lens, you won't be sorry.
Compact, lightweight with environmental protection, EOS 5D successor boasts a newly-designed Canon CMOS sensor, with ISO sensitivity up to 25,600 for shooting in near dark conditions. The new DIGIC 4 processor combines with the improved CMOS sensor to deliver medium format territory image quality at 3.9 frames per second, for up to 310 frames. Triggered from Live View Mode, HD video capture allows users to shoot uninterrupted at full 1080 resolution at 30fps -- for amazing quality footage with outstanding levels of detail and realism. The integration of HD movie capability into a high-end 21.1-megapixel camera opens a multitude of new possibilities for photojournalists and news photographers. With its full frame CMOS sensor and outstanding ISO performance, the EOS 5D Mark II will appeal to any photographer in search of the finest camera equipment available -- from studio and wedding to nature and travel photographers.
21.1-megapixel full-frame CMOS sensor, 14-bit A/D conversion, wide range ISO setting 100-6400
Body only; lenses sold separately
DIGIC 4 Image Processor; high-performance 3.9 fps continuous shooting; Live View Function for stills
Full HD video capture at 1920x1080 resolution for up to 4GB per clip ; HDMI output
Updated EOS Integrated Cleaning System specifically designed to work with a full-frame sensor
Never Ever: Rent, borrow or use this Camera, if you do, you will have to own it!
Reviewed by: Grant Brummett, Arizona USA Review Date: 2008-11-12
Canon 5D Mark II
Never Ever: Rent, borrow or use the Canon 5D Mark II, if you do, you will have to own it. It's that good!
Pros:
Crazy high ISO performance
Fantastic amazing image quality you have to see to believe!
Great menus, sharper, brighter, easier to read then 40D
Video, did someone say video? I love it! You will need a tripod!
Fantastic rear LCD that you can check actual photo sharpness
Super low light high ISO photographic tool with 25,600 ISO!!!
Feels great in your hands, the grip texture is easy to hold and is well balanced
Low 50 ISO allows photos at F/1.2 aperture out in bright sunlight for shallow DOF
Cons:
No Built in popup Flash
A little slower shooting then the 40D
Very demanding of lenses, high end L lenses are a must have
Huge files: you will need larger memory cards and a larger hard drive
Ultra large bright sharp viewfinder makes my 40D finder seem dim and tiny
Hum... I'm thinking..
Intro:
I have had my Canon 5D Mark II for a little over two weeks now. And I'm having a hard time putting it down.
I tried switching back to my Canon 40D and the very first thing you notice is how small, dim and fuzzy the viewfinder on the 40D is compared to the 5D Mark II. Especially if you are older you will really appreciate being able to easy see and read information in the viewfinder not to mention you can actually manually focus with it. It reminds me of my switch from the Canon Rebel XTi to the 40D. It's that big a difference.
The Images are huge and quite simply stunning. Plus I find that I can get away with very low noise all the way up to 3200 ISO on the 5D Mark II where the 40D was very noisy. In fact I would not hesitate to say the 5D Mark II photos has less noise at 9,600 ISO then the 40D does at 1600 ISO.
Lenses:
I have never had the pleasure of owning a Camera that is this demanding of the lens you use. It's like an instant lens test. I haven't seen much in-depth lens as used on 5D Mark II information on the other reviews and decided this would be good to be included in my review.
All of these lenses are brighter in the viewfinder and focus much better on my 5D Mark II then on my 40D.
So, with that said after several hundred photos I can give you a rundown of my most used, most favorite, best performing and least used lenses that I have used on the 5D Mark II and a few un-expected surprises along the way.
1. Canon 200mm F/2 IS L lens. This lens is my new master of resolving power. Even wide open at F/2 it is sharper then any other lens I have ever used. I could go on and on but here's a few highlights: Lightening fast auto focus, F/2 speed at 200mm, unbelievable perfect 10 Images, public attention hog, otherworldly image stabilization, great build quality, weather sealed, fantastic perfect buttery smooth Bokeh and what a lens case! If you crave attention and demand the absolute best there is the do what ever it takes to get this lens on your Canon 5D Mark II. If you do not like public attention you may want to skip to number 2 in this list as I have never been asked so many questions about a lens as this one. But it's all worth it as the clarity, sharpness, Bokeh and colors are: otherworldly, insane, impossible, rare, perfect, out of sight, crazy!!
2. Canon 85mm F/1.2 II L lens. Without a doubt at F/4 (after the Canon 200mm F/2 of course) this lens delivers the clearest sharpest and most resolving power onto any photograph you care to take with the Canon 5D Mark II. The clarity has to be seen to be believed. At F/1.2 the Depth of Field (DOF) is scary thin and the edges are super soft which is great for female portraiture. The super soft creamy dreamy Bokeh at F/1.2 is much smoother on the 5D Mark II over my 40D. But stop this lens down to F/1.8 and it gets scary sharp and clear. Step it down to F/4.0 and it's at its sharpest and the only lens I have that gives you 100% pixel peeping razor blade edge to edge top to bottom perfect clarity in every single area of the photo. For some reason this lens is even sharper on my 5D Mark II then my 40D or Rebel, don't know why but it is. Guess it's getting the full resolving power to the 21 megapixel sensor.
Looking at a photo on my iMac taken with a 5D Mark II with this lens stopped down to F/4 is like standing there looking through an open window at the actual scene! You feel like you could actually open up the computer screen like opening a window and climb in!!!
The 85mm F/1.2 is your low light monster on the 5D Mark II, I don't have to harp too much on what an F/1.2 aperture and an ISO 25,600 can do for you at night. Let's just say you can go out into what appears to be a dark night and do hand held photos.
Not all is perfect as it's: expensive, heavy, and hard to focus wide open, focus lock does not work and it eats camera batteries at twice the rate of my other lenses. Also it doesn't focus as close on the 5D Mark II as it did on my 40D so you can't get head filling close ups. This isn't really a problem, as with 21 Mega Pixels I can crop no problem. However, all this is forgiven when I get back to my iMac and view the results. This is the very first lens I will reach for when using the 5D Mark II and the one that's on it 90% of the time. If I could have just one lens for a Canon 5D Mark II this would be the one! [...]
2. Tie! Canon 135mm F/2 L. It's small light and stealthy and has fastest and best auto-focus of any lens I have ever owned (after the Canon 200mm F/2 IS L). It even focuses pretty close on the 5D Mark II. This lens is amazing, the Bokeh looks like sweet candy and it's sharper wide open then the Canon 85mm F/1.2 II L lens is wide open and stop it down to F/2.2 and it's as sharp as any lens I have. It's not a zoom so it's not as versatile but it's a great waist up portrait lens out in public and in larger studios. It's one of my most used lens at outdoor public events along with the 85mm F/1.2 II L (renaissance festivals etc.) where I'm photographing people. For some reason this lens is a little sharper on my Canon Rebel and 40D I guess because I'm using the center of the lens and it's sharper on these cropped sensor cameras.
3. Canon 100-400 F/4.5 - F/5.6 IS L lens. This is the second most used lens in my 5D Mark II arsenal. This lens was my biggest surprise of the group. Its Ok wide open but it's a monster of clarity at F/7.1 like it never was on my Canon 40D. It also becomes useable on the 5D Mark II in wider shot situations where on the 40D it was only usable as a longer lens. Sporting the longest zoom range of any Canon zoom this lens has to be without doubt the finest Zoo lens ever made, [...] You can frame almost any animal in almost any exhibit perfectly. This is also my lens of choice for taking photos of people at events with the 5D Mark II and is the King of versatility on a full-framed sensor camera. This is my sharpest and clearest zoom lens by a long shot (no pun intended. It's as close to the you are there feeling of the 85mm F/1.2 lI lens as any zoom lens I have. It's only drawbacks are it's a little heavy, is slow aperture wise (that's Ok with the 5D Mark II high ISO capability) and it gets a huge amount of attention out in public. I don't care it's all worth it this is a must have lens with the 5D Mark II. Again, for some reason this lens is even sharper on my 5D Mark II then my 40D or Rebel, don't know why but it is.
5-26-2009 100-400 update: So I came back from the Riparian Bird Preserve yesterday where it was rather dusty and I noticed that my sensor and mirror box were full of dust. I decided to do a test on my 100-400 lens and sure enough it does pump dust into the camera body.
If you turn the zoom friction ring all the way loose and zoom in and out with the bottom end cap off there is no resistance. If you put the bottom end cap on tightly and zoom you can feel resistance. Then if you loosen the end cap just a little you can actually feel air being sucked in and out around the end cap as you zoom in and out.
Thank God for my FIrefly digital sensor cleaning system! And be forewarned if you own this lens.
4. Canon 17-40 F/4 L lens. This is my sleeper lens. A so so walk around lens on my 40D becomes a wide angle monster on my Canon 5D Mark II. This lens is soft wide open at F/4 but sharpens up noticeably at F/4.5 and becomes a super wide angle take it all in landscape and interior monster when stopped down to F/9 on a Canon 5D Mark II. This is a lens I always carry with me now since I never know when I might see a wide angle opportunity. Doesn't have the you are there feeling when viewing the photos on my iMac as much as the above three lenses but it's closer to perfection then you will ever see on a cropped sensor camera. I keep hoping that Canon will make a wide angle zoom that matches the performance of my Canon 100-400 IS L zoom lens. This lens has a similar sharpness on both the Canon 5D Mark II and cropped sensor cameras like my 40D.
5. Canon 70-200 F/2.8 L lens. This lens is actually about even with my Canon 100-400 IS L Lens in the zoom sharpness and clarity department but it's no where near as versatile on my 5D Mark II as the 100-400. Still it's a must have lens when shooting weddings when you need the super Bokeh background melting power of an F/2.8 aperture and lower light power of an F/2.8 aperture. The sharpness and clarity at F/2.8 that was Ok on the 40D is much improved for some strange reason on the 5D Mark II. And the Bokeh is much smoother creamier and richer on the 5D Mark II.
Just have to mention a great alternative lens the Canon 70-200 F/4 I/S L lens which I think is a sharper and better lens then the 70-200 F/2.8 as not only does it have a fluorite element but I did some back to back testing with my friends F/4 and my F/2.8 and the 70-200 F/4 was indeed better and at a great price. Additionally it's much lighter in weight and smaller physically. However keep in mind at F/4 it is a slower lens.
6. Canon 24-70 F/2.8 L lens. This is the lens I reach for when I'm shooting closer photos at a wedding and I need the versatility of a zoom. It's also the lens I reach for when shooting videos with the 5D Mark II. If I could shoot all day with the Canon 85mm F/1.2 II L I would. But at a wedding where you can't always zoom with your feet I reach for the Canon 24-70 F/2.8 L. Its good on the 5D Mark II but not as good as the 17-40 L but has better reach then the 17-40. But it does not have that uncanny you are there feel of the first three lenses on my list. The Canon 5D Mark II clearly out resolves this lens and that is very disappointing for an L lens that costs over a thousand dollars. Thank GOD for the auto peripheral as this lens is a Vignetting monster when shot wide open on a 5D Mark II, it was not on the 40D. With the Vignetting control built into Digital Photo Professional (DPP) and the on-board 5D Mark II auto control it's perfect and Vignetting is not a problem. This lens is also very fragile and has required sending back to Canon for recalibration but is a must have in my arsenal only because I do weddings. I'm hoping Canon will come out with an Image Stabilized improved version that has that you are there feel of the 100-400 zoom. Once again it seems like this lens may be losing it's calibration and I am starting to lose my patience. If you need this lens then get it just beware of possible maintenance problems.
7. Canon 50mm F/1.8 II lens. This lens which was pretty decent on the 40D and Rebel XTi comes completely apart on the 5D Mark II. No surprise since it's only $89. I guess the surprise was how well it had worked on a Canon 40D and Rebel XTi. If you own a 5D Mark II then don't bother. If you own a cropped sensor camera its a great little lens.
8. Canon 17-50mm F/2.8 EF-S L lens. Why am I mentioning this lens here? It's a shame this cropped sensor only lens can't be used on the 5D Mark II. It's one of my most used and sharpest lenses on my Canon 40D and Canon Rebel XTi. In fact it's my daughter's favorite lens on those two cameras. Because it's such a great sharp low light monster because of the Image Stabilization (IS) it would be fantastic on the 5D Mark II. Canon please make us a wide angle L lens with IS. It's been very reliable un-like my 24-70, I highly recommend if you have a cropped sensor camera!
9. Canon 15mm Fisheye! This lens is a hoot on the 5D Mark II. A full 180 degrees of wide angle fun! Put it on and shoot the inside of a small car, or airplane, or take it to your local baseball diamond or anywhere you would love to see a 180 degree shot. And the curved effect on a full frame camera makes everyone who sees one of these photos go oooohhhhhh yeah cool shot. I listed this lens last because its one of those lenses you don't want to over use but one that you just have to just have to have. It's pretty sharp wide open but gets sharper at F/4 and reaches maximum sharpness at F/8. It has the old style focus system that's a little noisy and slow but it really doesn't matter as there isn't much focus range anyway everything is close to infocus at 15mm.
Three old 5D complaints answered:
1. Vignetting or peripheral lighting issue
2. Dust on the sensor
3. The rear LCD
1. Vignetting:
You can either have the 5D Mark II auto-correct peripheral illumination on board for JPEGs or adjust images using Canon's Digital Photo Professional (DPP) software that came with your Mark II. I have noticed on the full framed 5D Mark II my Canon 24-70 F/2.8 L lens with the peripheral illumination correction turned OFF the 5D Mark II images will severely vignette or be dark in the corners when shot wide open (F/2.8). It's almost like looking through a dark tunnel. It's especially noticeable shot wide open with the sky as a background. Auto-correct to the rescue!! With the peripheral illumination correction turned ON it's almost magical the darkening in the corners is gone! If you want you can even shoot in Raw mode and adjust the amount of Vignetting or darkness in the corners for effects such as when shooting portraits and you want to emphasis the person in the middle of the photo. Just open the Raw photo in DPP and click on the NR/Lens / ALO tab and select Lens Aberration Correction Tune and adjust the peripheral illumination to suite by dragging the slider or entering and amount. Or select all the photos in a directory and you can correct all your photos at once.
2. Dust on the Sensor:
The old 5D was a dust hog, no-one ever said it was not. The new one though now as a new fluorite coating and ant-dust shake. I did get some dust on my sensor after going out and switching lens in the field shooting birds but un-like my 40D I successfully blew off all the dust using my Firefly Digital Dust sensor cleaner. This new fluorite coating must make it much harder for the dust to stick to the 5D Mark II sensor then the sensor on my 40D.
3. Rear LCD
This has to be seen to be believed. The rear LCD is so sharp and so bright its shocking. The one on the 40D is now just OK. And I could never be sure if I got the shot or not. On the 5D Mark II you can zoom in an check fine focus. The only thing you may want to turn off is the auto light level adjuster so when walking in and out of shaded areas the brightness level does not change when the ambient light levels change. Some people may like it some may hate it. I like it myself as I can now see the image out in the sunlight unlike on the 40D where it's totally washed out. Thing is Canon lets you decide and you can turn it on or off. When off it stays the same no matter the ambient light.
LOW ISO:
Holy cow 6400 ISO I can shoot at F/4.5 in a dark room!!!! Took some night shots in and outside of the house and downloaded. Booted up DPP and WOW!
Photos are great at 3200 ISO even in Raw mode with standard noise reduction. Once you apply the correct amount of noise reduction and converted to 17inch JPEG's the 3200 ISO photos are AWESOME!!! The night shots of my Christmas tree at 3200 ISO on my 40D are almost unusable. But with the 5D Mark II they are fantastic. But my 24inch iMac seems a little slower looking through the photos... In fact it seems to be crawling! I ended up having to upgrade to a Firewire 800 external hard drive to fix the problem.
Black Dots:
I finally got a single photo with black dots by shooting at 25,600 ISO at night around some Christmas lights. You have to zoom in to 200% and pixel peep to see them. That's one shot out of several hundred night shots! Still haven't found any dots in day time photos.
Memory Storage:
I'm going to have to buy larger Compact Flash Cards my 8GB card only holds about 267 shots when the 5D Mark II is set to Raw only. But it's worth it especially for high ISO shots. At times I'm hard pressed on-screen to tell 1600 ISO from the 5D Mark II to the 100 ISO out of my 40D. It's that GOOD!
Video:
I for one never thought I would be in this love for video. But this camera is awesome, low natural light great Bokeh low depth of field video. Just in time for the holidays. The only thing is after viewing the videos back on my iMac computer no matter how steady you hands are you will need a tripod. The tiniest movements when playing back on a computer or TV seem to be magnified no matter how steady I try and hand hold the camera.
40D to 5D Mark II transition:
Well, it looks a lot like my Canon 40D but the controls on the back are on the left instead of the bottom.
Has a similar feel and weight to me at least maybe just a touch bigger and heavier then a 40D. Focus is better in low light for sure. Looks great with a Canon 17-40 F/4 L lens mounted. Maybe a little more rubbery grip on the grip.
This will be a much easier transition coming from the Canon 40D to the Canon 5D Mark II then my transition from the Rebel XTi to the 40D as the control placement and use are very similar unlike when I switched from the Rebel to the 40D and everything was in a different location.
Setup:
Put the strap on while I'm waiting for the dead battery to charge.
Ok battery is charged now, put it in, turn it on and set the time and date.
Then plug into the Mac and set my preferences under the styles and choose my lenses under the peripheral illumination correction. Very nice and very easy.
Put in the owners Information and copyright info. Gotta love that it's automatically on every photo now!
Menus:
Menus are a little different, but hey they are much sharper, this LCD is really sharp and bright!!!
Who the heck put 10 images as the default for skipping on review!!! That's another one of the first changes to go!
Bottom line:
Bottom line is if you own a big L lens collection and do any shooting at all in the dark without flash and don't have a full framed camera the 5D Mark II is a must have addition!
1-11-2009 Update:
I installed firmware update 1.0.7 which is supposed to correct the black dot problem and now I can't get it to make a black dot photo at all. So hopefully this was the fix we were all seeking.
This full framed sensor camera continues to impress me and the sensor continues to be dust free!
4-1-2009 Update:
This full framed sensor camera continues to impress. Just got back from shooting the 2009 Arizona Renaissance festival where I shot both the 40D and 5D Mark II and looking at the photos the 5D Mark II just walks all over the 40D in image quality. So much so that I don't reach for the 40D much any more the 5D Mark II is that much better. Got one spec of dust from lens changing at the Renaissance but it was easily blow off with my FireFly sensor cleaner.
4-27-2009 I just got back from photographing the World Premiere of X-Men Origins: Wolverine and once again the 5D Mark II was awesome. I ended up mainly using two lenses the Canon 24-70 F/2.8 L zoom and Canon 100-400 IS L zoom lens. When you have only one chance to get Hugh Jackman riding by on his Harley you want to make sure you have reliable quick focusing equipment.
6-25-2009
Still very in love with my Canon 5D Mark II. See photos and videos I have taken with this camera at http://www.flickr.com/photos/grantbrummett/sets/72157621665984915/
Great Camera for my First Full Frame
Reviewed by: Catherine Hoffman, Valparaiso, IN Review Date: 2008-12-27
This was my first full frame camera. Prior to it I had owned and operated a 40D, 30D and Rebel XTi. I am a wedding and sports photographer primarily, so I have been able to test the 5D Mark II out under both of these conditions.
For basketball I used it with AI Servo, Center Point focus, but went into custom settings and enabled the AF assist dots. It worked like a dream, focusing faster and more accurately than my 40D ever had. While no, the FPS aren't ideal for sports, if you can lock on focus like this from the start, you can still achieve amazing sports photographs. Plus the fact that I was able to shoot at ISO 4,000 and not have noticeable noise was just incredible. The shots auto-white balanced correctly too which normally in the arena I shoot at is not what happens on my 40D.
My first wedding all I could say all day was wow. I was getting available light photographs I never would have dreamed of before. The new screen also made it incredibly easy to determine if something was in focus or not. When I would switch between my 40D and 5D2 I found out just how spoiled that screen had made me, since the 40D screen looked terrible to me now when previously I thought that had a great screen. I sure was wrong! 920,000 pixels is definitely the way to go on this LCD. I primarily shot with center point (one shot) for my focus and it nailed focus every time. I did a mix up of manual, aperture priority and some program (Program mostly for the formals)
What else do I love about it? The 98% view finder is awesome. I like being able to use UDMA cards in it...
Video! Although I'm not a video / motion person by nature, I prefer stills, I've been testing out the video quite a bit. At Christmas I took a few short clips of my nephew and was really happy with how they look. It's very neat to be able to take high definition video of a little kid and have that awesome affect of a wide aperture blurring out the background. The only downside is that the files are huge. My 1 minute clip was over 300MB, but that's what I get for shooting in 1080!
The batteries this camera use really do hold a charge for a while. I used mine with the battery grip at the wedding, and the two batteries after going for over 500 shots (maybe close to 600 shots that day?) still had about 72% charge each left on them. I could easily have shot 3 times that much and still have had left over charge on the batteries. Also the new battery info screen is really nifty since you can see what serial number battery has what charge, making it a lot easier to keep track of.
So far I've used a 35 1.4/L, 135 2/L, 70-200 f2.8/L, 50 1.4, and 100 2.8 Macro on this camera body and all have performed wonderfully. I don't miss the pop up flash that my 40D has since I never used it anyway, I always throw my 580 EX II on top when I need flash.
This camera really is a gem and I highly recommend it if it fits in your budget!
Finally Upgraded - Glad I Did
Reviewed by: Fisherman Dan, Richmond, VA Review Date: 2010-03-05
I've been looking at the Canon 5D Mark II for a long time - since before it came out in late 2008. It's taken a while but I finally pulled the trigger.
My first Canon SLR was the EOS 650 - the autofocus SLR that "started it all". Then in early 2000's I got the Digital Rebel, then an XTi and quickly after that the Canon 40D.
I've liked all the digital SLR's I've used to date but only the 40D reminded me of the build quality and "heft" that my original 650 had. And although you get used to it, the 1.6 crop factor of the sensor size is really a big difference on the wide-angle side.
Over time I also upgraded my lenses to the 17-40 F4L, the 24-105 F4L, the 70-200 F2.8L and the 100-300 F4.5-5.6L - with IS in all but the 17-40.
I guess I'd call myself an "advanced amateur". My usual approach to photography is to compose a good shot and then crop later to a better composition to get my "keepers".
With the 40D and my outfit of lenses I can pretty much do it all - especially on the telephoto side. However, I noticed that when you crop significantly a 10.1MP image, the end result can have significantly reduced image quality.
So - I determined a little more megapixels to work with would be helpful.
Next, the 40D's max ISO is 1600 but at 800 the noise can be a bit of a distraction. The simple solution is to stay below 800 but that requires a flash or photos of stationary objects in darker settings.
So - I determined that something with better light sensitivity would be helpful.
I noticed that some of my lenses were sharper than others on the 40D. I sent the body to Canon with my 24-105 to get the focusing "matched" and the results were good. But it was a one-size fits all solution.
So - I determined that something that offered lens microadjustment would be helpful.
I watched and waited patiently for the "brouhaha" of enthusiam for the 5D MarkII to settle down as I'm not the sort of sucker that pays more than MSRP for anything. I knew my time would come, I'd get my 5DMarkII - even if my wife said no. Now the MSRP is $200 less!
Finally, along comes this blasted Canon 7D to totally ruin my plan. It solves my megapixel issue, it solves my ISO issue, it has lens microadjustment (as does the 50D) it even offers an advanced video capability and "new and improved" autofocusing system. And it's $800+ less expensive. What a quandary.... now what?
With much consternation and angst I debated over and over the 7D or 5DMII. On the one hand, on the other had - you know the drill. Is the 5DMII worth it?
I put my 17-40 lens on the 40D and then on my EOS650 and like I said - the difference is huge between a full frame and cropped sensor. I'm not a video-enthusiast and I'm not really sure what the big deal is about "24p" vs "30p" so that wasn't too important. I believe with autofocusing - "it's not the arrow, it's the indian" and unless something's out of wack your images should be focused or you're making a mistake.
So, I took the plunge and purchased the 5D Mark II.
It's awesome.
The look and feel is very EOS-like. Not too different than my 40D - probably a little better in fact. I like the Creative Auto mode a lot and the menu on the LCD is great.
The ISO range is totally worth it. I take shots routinely at 3200 and they look like 400 on the 40D (very minimal noise / graininess). When I use a flash - the results are amazing.
I microadjusted the camera for all the lenses I own, and as expected the settings for each were slightly different. Now my images are spot-on, unless I screw up (again - it's not the arrow, it's the indian).
To top it all off - Canon is coming out with a firmware update to add 24p (et al) to the 5DMark II.
The Live-view mode is much simpler than on the 40D and focusing is very easy.
The 21 Megapixels is way more than I really need but when I crop my images I get great results so I'm delighted there. I delete images I don't like so my storage constraints are limited.
Finally - the full-frame sensor gives me all the image my considerable lens investment can provide and offers me opportunity on the wide angle side that the 7D couldn't. It's a big deal and not to be discounted (although you can get an EFS 10-22 to make up for it on a cropped body).
I'm sure the 7D is an awesome camera too and I bet the autofocus system is an improvement. However - if you're like me, you've got great lenses, you've been patiently waiting for the hysteria to calm down, and you're ready to change camera bodies then I totally recommend going full frame and getting the 5D Mark II.
Impressive!!!
Reviewed by: Jiu-Shang Yang, San Jose, CA United States Review Date: 2008-12-23
I just got my 5D mark II today from Amazon (not the cold-blooded 3rd party dealer). My order was Camera plus 24-105 lens kit at $3499 but somehow it came with body only. I need to work out with Amazon later. Anyway. My 1st DSLR is Canon 40D, which is my baseline for the comparison.
Pros:
1. Full frame = Real wide angle. My 17-40 lens can now work as it's supposed to.
2. High ISO with amazing quality. The noise level at ISO 12800 (H1) in 5D ~= ISO 1250-1600 in 40D. Noise software (ex: Noiseware) can still produce an acceptable image with 12800. Poor quality in 25600 (H2) is expected, and it can be used just in case. So my upper limit boosts from 1250 in 40D to 6400 in 5D which is a 2-1/3 stop jump (Thanks for Johnny Chan's correction).
3. High quality LCD with a light sensor, so no need to adjust LCD brightness from time to time. It's neat.
4. Autofocus microadjustment by lens.
5. Others such as high pixel, HD video, HDMI port... etc, but those are not really a must to me. Still can get 30x20 printout with 10MP 40D by Photoshop.
Cons:
1. Sync speed = 200ns in 5D while 250ns in 40D. I use Canon 580EX II a lot for portrait shots. So 1-stop shutter speed matters. (Even I can use high speed mode in 580Ex).
2. Frame-per-second = 3.9 in 5D but 6.5 in 40D
Overall, it's a great upgrade to me and worth every penny.
------------------
12/24/2008 update
------------------
1. After calling/email to customer support, Amazon has refunded $800 price difference in 10 hours. I cannot satify more than this.
2. New RAW from 5D MK II is no longer supported by Photoshop CS3 and earlier versions. That means upgrading to Photoshop CS4 is a MUST if shooting with RAW. It's another "hidden" cost...
3. Just got the battery grip BG-E6 today from Adorama for ~$270. The pros is now it takes 6 AA batteries or 2 LP-E3 (which is also expensive ~$75 and also out-of-stock in most of places)... The cons is too heavy for me along with 24-70mm 2.8L lens.
You will never want to put this camera down!
Reviewed by: Paul, Boston, MA Review Date: 2010-01-01
I shot 35mm film ages ago, but stopped when the cost of purchasing film and processing fees became prohibitive. I have been a photographer in one form or another for nearly 20 years. I decided that I definitely wanted to go digital, but was not happy with any of the cropped sensor bodies available at the time (early 2000's). When the 1Ds and 5D models first became available, I drooled, but couldn't justify the amount of money. So I waited. Along came the 5D Mark II (or as we say in the software industry, version 2.0) The price was lower than the original 5D and the quality and speed were even better then the now-three year old model. I saved my pennies and nickels for a while and finally purchased one!
From the moment I picked up the demonstrator model in the store, I knew this was the camera for me. Well balanced, large view-finder, and *gasp* video! I'm not much of a videographer, but seriously, taking HD clips with a prime lens on a full-frame sensor is just insane!
Pros:
- Low-light performance has to be seen to be believed. I'm sure you have heard the hype, but it's not hype. You really can take reasonable pictures in much darker rooms than you ever thought possible.
- Well balanced in your hands
- Simple menu system that does not require an engineering degree to use.
- Image quality (IQ) that simply blows away everything else in its class.
- Price is actually reasonable for what you get; hundreds less than the competition.
- Video!
Cons:
- The IQ is _too_ good. You can actually tell the difference between pictures taken with "L" glass and those that were not.
- Frame rate isn't great for sports. If this is your intended use, look at the 7D or 1D.
- Video limited in odd ways. Then again, this is a DSLR, not a camcorder.
In spite of what I just said about taking pictures with "L" glass, this camera is perfectly serviceable with regular lenses. Just realize that they are "consumer" grade and will have issues when shot wide open or when at the minimum or maximum of the zoom range. That said, the "nifty fifty" (50mm f/1.8) that sells for around $100 takes astonishingly good pictures.
If you're just starting out, the lenses that I would recommend buying with this body are:
17-40mm f/4 L - Eye-popping landscapes. The 16-35mm f/2.8 L is a stop faster, but neither lens will see much indoor use as you would have to be mere inches away from your subject to fill the frame. The extra stop also doubles the price with little benefit in the scenarios that it is likely to be used. At 2.8 the faster lens is quite soft, and the image quality in general is not quite as good. Save your money and get the 17-40. You won't be sorry!
24-70mm f/2.8 L - Fantastic walk-around lens. The 24-105mm f/4 that comes in the 5DMkII kit has more reach and is image stabilized, but I still prefer the speed of the 24-70. You can do more with it in lower light sitations.
70-200mm f/2.8 L - The IS version of this lens is silly expensive, but the standard version shares the same glass with its brother. For portraits and weddings, you cannot have a finer lens. The f/4 cousins are smaller and lighter. If you plan to shoot outdoors most of the time where there is sufficient light, then you should be fine with it. Indoors you will find yourself using a flash more often, even with the IS version of the f/4. The bokeh from the f/2.8 is noticeably better too.
50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 - The "L" version of this lens is f/1.2 and about $1k more. It's soft at f/1.2 and shoots its best at f/1.4 and higher. The "L" glass _is_ better than its cheaper cousins, but is it really worth it? This is one of the rare cases where there is little need to buy the "L" version. Buy the f/1.4 for $350 or the f/1.8 for $100 and enjoy it.
7 New — prices too low to display (click "More Info" or "Add to Cart" button to see prices)
6 Used from $2,200.00
The new D700 digital SLR camera featuring a 12.1-effective megapixel Nikon FX-format sensor that measures 23.9 x 36mm, which is nearly identical to the size of 35mm film. Benefiting from Nikon's legacy of imaging technology innovation, the D700 offers both advanced and professional photographers stunning image quality, accurate color reproduction and revolutionary low light performance.Building on the immense success of the Nikon D3 professional D-SLR camera, the D700 offers pro-level performance and an extensive array of features and innovations in a comfortably nimble platform. In addition to the Nikon-original FX-format CMOS sensor, the D700 incorporates Nikon's EXPEED Image Processing System, Nikon's renowned 51-point auto focus system with 3D Focus Tracking and two Live View shooting modes that allow photographers to frame a shot using the camera's three-inch high-resolution LCD monitor. The D700 also features Nikon's sophisticated Scene Recognition System and a new active dust reduction system.Nikon's flagship FX and DX-format cameras, the D3 and D300 respectively, established new benchmarks for digital image quality, speed, and unmatched ISO performance. The D700 maintains this new measure with exceptional overall image quality, broad tonal range and depth, and extremely low noise throughout its native ISO range of 200 to 6400.
12.1-megapixel FX-format (23.9 x 36mm) CMOS sensor; body only
3.0-inch, 920,000-dot VGA color monitor; 170-degree wide-angle viewing and tempered-glass protection
Fast, accurate 51-point AF system; 3D Focus Tracking and two Live View shooting modes
Base ISO range from 200-6400 can be expanded to range from ISO 100 (Lo-1) to 25,600 (Hi-2); 0.12-second start-up speed
Capture images to CF I/II cards; compliant high-speed UDMA CF cards that will enable recording speeds up to 35 megabytes/second
Reviewed by: LGO, QC MM RP Review Date: 2008-08-01
I am making this review of the Nikon D700 from the perspective of someone who also owns a Nikon D300.
Without qualification, the Nikon D300 is a superb camera. So many superlatives have been used with the D300 that I will not repeat them here. All the superlatives used with the D300 applies equally well to the D700. I will add however that as good as the superlatives may have been with the D300, the D700 deserves a bit more.
Let me explain.
The Nikon D700 is equipped with a full frame FX sensor (36.00mm x 23.90mm). This is the same sensor used by the Nikon D3. Nikon D3 12.1MP FX Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) The D300 on the other hand uses the APS-C sensor (23.60mm x 15.80mm). Both the D700 and the D300 have about the same 12 megapixel rating (with the D300 actually slightly higher).
The D700 having a bigger sensor than the D300 but with about the same megapixel rating means that the size/pixel density of the D700 is much lower than the D300. The ratio is 1.4MP/cm2 vs 3.3MP/cm2 for the D700 and the D300 respectively. A lower ratio means lower noise and this ratio favors the D700. For the D700, this translates to lower noise in capturing the same image than when using using the D300.
The D700 lower noise level in turn translates to the D700 being able to operate at a higher ISO level than the D300. The D700 can operate as high as ISO 25,600 while the D300 can go up to ISO 6,400. It is of course quite rare to shoot at such high ISO as it will always be better to shot at a lower ISO rating. But if both the D700 and D300 were shooting at the same ISO, the D700 will have lower noise levels. Simply put, the higher ISO capability of the D700 versus the D300 indicates the higher level of performance of the D700's sensor vs the D300.
My actual use validates this theoretical advantage. I noticed that while the noise level of the D300 is very good at ISO 1600 and even 3200, the D700 consistently showed lower noise level than the D300 shooting at the same ISO setting and light condition. This is most noticeable when shooting at night with many bright lights in the periphery of the main subject.
In terms of color rendition, I have not noticed any significant differences between the D300 and the D700 in the limited time that I have been using the D700. It may be due to the fact that I have conducted my test at dusk and at night.
When using the D700, the full frame sensor means that one will not need to convert the focal length of the lens by a factor of 1.5x. So a 50mm lens will be a 50mm lens for the D700 rather than its 75mm equivalent when used with the D300.
While this may appear to be a disadvantage on the telephoto side, its gain on the wide angle side is considerable and can only be described as an eye opener. The D700 advantage in wide angle application does not just come from its wider perspective. Rather, it is how the D700 maximizes and makes full use of such excellent lens as the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 that makes buying the D700 such an eye opener.
The resulting images taken with the Nikon D700 and the Nikon 14-24mm are clearer, sharper and crisper compared to the D300 even when the focal length in the D700 is zoomed out to its equivalent in the the D300 (21mm in D700 and 14mm in D300). Vignetting is not noticeably worse even when the D700 is used with the 14-24mm glass fully open at its widest focal length (14mm, f/2.8). This is surprising considering that the D700 is now using the full lens instead of just its sweet spot in the center (which would have been to the advantage of the D300 due to its APS-C sensor).
It is not just the wide angle lens that benefited from the D700. Even the slight vignetting I noticed with my 85mm f/1.4 shot with the D300 at f/2.8 is not considerably worse in the D700. I am very surprised at this rather unexpected results as I had expected the opposite. At any rate, vignetting is easily corrected in post-processing.
Still, I should add that for corner to corner sharpness (such as in landscape photography), the D700 with its full-frame sensors will be more demanding on the lens than the D300 with its smaller APS-C sensor.
As to the physical differences between the D700 and the D300, while these two models are roughly equal in size, the D700 is slightly heavier than the D300. This is not an issue for me at all.
What tilts the balance in favor of the D700 is its view finder which is significantly brighter and better than the D300. This difference is very noticeable when switching from the D700 to the D300 and vice versa.
This much improved viewfinder however is a mixed blessing. One disadvantage that the D700 has over the D300 is that the D700 viewfinder captures only 95% of the image while the D300 viewfinder captures 100% of the image shot. So the actual image captured is slightly bigger than what appears in the D700 viewfinder. I understand that this resulted from fitting the bigger sensor from the D3 into the body size of a D300. Given the better image quality of the D700 viewfinder and the better quality of its pictures, I am willing to work with this disadvantage and simply compensate for it during actual use. But I hope that Nikon corrects this though in its next iteration of the D700.
The D700 has an advantage over the D3 as it has an integrated flash which the D3 does not have. The integrated flash is extremely useful when used with the other components of Nikon's Creative Lightning System.
The Nikon MB-D10 Battery Pack Nikon MB-D10 Multi Power Battery Pack for Nikon D300 & D700 Digital SLR Cameras from the D300 fits the D700 perfectly well. This is very convenient as I can opt for a smaller and lighter package when I do not need the MB-D10 for high-speed shooting. This is one advantage that the D700 has over the D3 where the battery pack is integrated with the camera. But a D700 with an MB-D10 is bigger and heavier than a D3. And even when the D700 is equipped with an MB-D10, the D3 is still faster. This makes the D3 a better unit for sports photography.
Since I shoot mostly portrait, special events and landscape and seldom shoot sports, the D700 is perfect for my needs and I can do without the D3. The D700 lower price tag means that I can get the D700 with at least one of Nikon's professional lens.
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor Wide Angle Zoom Lens
Nikon 16-35mm f/4G ED VR II AF-S IF SWM Wide Angle Zoom Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor Wide Angle Zoom Lens
Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II Lens
Nikon 135mm f/2.0D AF DC-Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Nikon 50mm f/1.4G SIC SW Prime Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Ideally, the D700 should not be used with the DX lenses. This said, it is possible to use the DX lenses with the D700. The D700 makes the switch to DX lens automatically without need to fiddle with any control. Because the DX lens covers only a section of the D700 sensor, the maximum resolution of using a DX lens on the D700 is only 5.1 megapixel. This smaller coverage is automatically delineated by a box in the D700 viewfinder. In addition to the lower resolution, the extreme two ends of a zoom lens is not usable. Within these limitations, the D700 can use DX lens and produces very good pictures albeit on a smaller resolution / file size.
The D700/FX (1.0x factor) and the D300/DX (1.5x factor) effectively doubles my lens option. For those planning to own both the D300 and the D700, it would be wise to choose a glass that would be usable with both bodies.
In closing, I consider the D700 a good complement to my D300. Except for my Nikon 18-200mm DX lens (which I bought for my Nikon D200), all my glasses and accessories for the D300 can be used with the D700 at its full resolution. I will use the D700 in those times when I need the best results shooting wide angle and/or at high ISO speed. In those times when I need the extra reach, the D300's 1.5x crop factor makes the best use of my telephoto lenses.
Edit: November 22, 2008
I continue to use both the Nikon D300 and the Nikon D700 and often bring both together whenever I go out to shoot. In those times when I just bring one camera body, I choose the D300 whenever range and higher pixel density is a major concern (bec. of the 1.5x crop factor effect on the field of view due to the smaller APS-C sensor but with resolution still at 12megapixel). The D300 is an excellent camera and its 1.5x factor is very handy when I need to reach out with a 70-200mm f/2.8 zoom or with my 180mm f/2.8 prime without need of using a teleconverter. For almost every other instance, including portrait, landscape and low light photography however, I find myself reaching out for the D700.
After over 3 and a half months of use, I can safely say that the color depth of the D700 is significantly much better than the D300. The range of colors, the color details, the varying shade of colors, and the dynamic range that the D700 is capable of capturing is considerably better and richer than what the D300 is capable of. This advantage is best appreciated when taking portrait and landscape photos. The difference in dynamic range is specially noticeable when shooting at higher ISO settings as noise imposes considerable limits on the dynamic range possible. The D700 is clearly better than the D300 on dynamic range at high ISO settings.
One other difference I should mention between the D300 and the D700 is the difference that the sensor size has on effective depth of field. The bigger the sensor, the shallower the depth of field while the smaller the sensor, the greater the depth of field. Point and shoot cameras with minuscule-sized sensor often have the greatest depth of field.
The D700, having a bigger full-frame sensor, has a shallower depth of field than the D300 (which has the smaller APS-C sensor) at the same aperture setting given the same equivalent lens focal length. The difference in the effective depth of field is about one stop. At the same equivalent focal length, the equivalent depth of field of a D700 at f/2.0 would be a D300 at f/1.4.
The shallower depth of field of the D700 would be an advantage to a user who would like to isolate a subject and blur the background. The deeper depth of field of the D300 would be an advantage to a user who would like to keep several subjects at difference distances in focus. I use the D700 where I need to isolate a subject, blur the background, and get the best bokeh. This effect is most noticeable when shooting at wide open apertures from f/1.4 to f/2.8. This, plus the color advantage of the D700, makes the D700 my preferred body for shooting portraits.
Finally, one difference I notice between the D700 and the D300 is that the D700 has a better damped shutter release button. I find that it is easier to release the shutter in the D700 than in the D300. This makes a big difference when shooting at low shutter speeds.
A Smaller D3
Reviewed by: B. Fuller, United States Review Date: 2008-08-12
This is an amazing camera. I am not going to go over the specs because you can read about them on just about any camera web site. What I am going to concentrate on is who should buy one and why.
First off, I've read about many folks lamenting having bought the D300 and now feel like the need to "upgrade" to a D700. These are two different cameras for two different purposes and as such don't compete against each other so much as complement each other. The D300 doesn't have the low noise capability (The D700 can get clean images at ISO1600 vice ISO400 for the D300) nor does it have the wide angle capabilities of the D700. The D700 doesn't have the 1.5x multiplier of the D300 so wide angle lenses are truly wide. Additionally, while you can use DX lenses on the D700, you will only be using 5 mp of your sensor.
Another comparison is between the D3 and D700. They both have the same sensor so the image and ISO abilities are the same. The D700 comes slower out of the box but with the Nikon EN-EL4a Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery for MB-D10 Battery Pack and Nikon D2 and D3 Digital SLR Cameras, Nikon MB-D10 Multi Power Battery Pack for Nikon D300 & D700 Digital SLR Cameras, Nikon BL-3 Battery Chamber Cover for Nikon EN-EL4 and EN-EL4a for the MB-D10, and Nikon MH-21 Quick Charger for Nikon EN-EL4 and EN-EL4a Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries (~$500) you will be rocking with 8 fps and great battery life; just barely slower than the D3. Also, I have not found any technical data on the autofocus and processing chip but in my non-scientific side by side comparison the D700 seemed just as fast as the D3 while the D300 appeared noticeably slower. (This was shot with the 85mm 1.4D. This lens does not have Silent Wave Motor focus and therefore relies on the camera's focusing motor.) As I said this is not scientific but I am also guessing that Nikon saved on engineering costs by just transferring the guts of the D3 to the D700 and slowing it down (this is probably the reason the D700 gets such poor battery life (200-300 shots vice 1000 shots) in comparison to the D300).
So without further ado:
Buy the Nikon D700 12.1MP Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) if:
You need to shoot in no flash low light situations. With a 1.4 lens at 1600 ISO you would be amazed at the quality of the photos! If you are not doing close up work of people you can get great shots @ 6400 ISO. If you can stand a grain in B+W(a very cool effect by the way), then you can get good shots @ 25,600!
You want to shoot ultra wide. With no multiplication factor, you can shoot truly wide angle photos. The 14mm is 14mm not 21mm like on a DX camera. Also, although you can get the Nikon 12-24mm f/4G ED IF Autofocus DX Nikkor Zoom Lens which will be the equivalent of 18-36mm, it will still have the distortion of a 12-24mm lens. So compared to the FX D700 you would get 14 deg less width with more distortion.
You are willing to spend $4500 more on the lenses. The body is disposable, the lenses are what last. You could get away with a 50mm 1.4 and that would be a fine place to start and a great way to learn how to frame a picture. However, I would recommend the following 3 lenses and I would recommend getting them in the following order. 1) The Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras - $1000 (Super fast, incredibly shallow depth of field, and amazing construction. Get this lens and practice getting good with a fixed length lens! Get this lens over the 85mm 1.8 for the construction and 9 blade design. You will be blown away with how low the light can be and you can still get the shot! (Rumors have it that Nikon is about to replace this lens with a new improved version. I expect the new lens will be better but will likely cost 1.5 to 2x as much.) 2) The Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras - $1700 This is the lens pros use to earn their living. (It has been 5 years since Nikon updated this lens so it is due for a replacement soon but again I am sure it will be more expensive and this lens rocks right now) 3. The Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor Wide Angle Zoom Lens - ~$1600. Stupid fast, stupid wide, and stupid great. What more can you ask?
Buy the Nikon D300 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR DX Nikkor Zoom Lens if:
You want an amazing all around lens. The Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens (27-300mm equivalent) You really never need to take this lens off. You can shoot wide (27mm) and telephoto (300mm) Wow this lens does it all.
You want to shoot long. If you take a D300, the 70-200mm 2.8, and a 1.7x teleconverter you get a 178-510mm F4.8 for $3600!! Or add the 300mm 2.8 and you get a 765mm F4.8 for $6500 ($3000 cheaper and 5 lbs lighter than a 600mm F4 lens). Totally astounding.
You shoot in relatively decent light. Until I got the D700, I routinely shot great portrait shots at home, at night, and with poor lighting using the D300 and the 85mm 1.4 at 1/30s and ISO200-400.
You want to buy and take advantage of DX lenses. Really you only need 2 lenses with the D300. You will want the 18-200mm and the 12-24mm. That will cover everything you need for a grand total of $1500. I would still recommend the Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens. A stupid fast 128mm 1.4 on the D300.
Buy the Nikon D3 12.1MP FX Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) if everything about the D700 fits your shooting requirements and:
You shoot more than 3000 photos per month. The D700's shutter is rated to 150,000 cycles while the D3 is 300,000. Nikon's generational replacement cycle for their flagship camera is 4 years. That means if you shoot ~3000 photos per month you will shoot ~150,000 shots in 4 years and it will be time to replace the camera anyway. If you shoot 10,000 shots per month you will have to replace the camera in 15 months. However, with the D3 you would not have to replace the camera until 30 months.
You earn your living shooting photographs. Memory cards rarely fail but do you want to lose thousands of dollars and your reputation by risking it. Get the D3 and set it to write the images to both cards. Yes, there are other techniques to minimize your exposure to this failure but none are as easy and reliable.
You don't want the option to remove the battery and vertical grip. With the D700 you can add the MB-D10 to make it 98% of the D3. However, if you don't want the weight or need the speed you can remove it and save the space and weight. This is useful for long hiking trips (However, I would recommend a D300 for this unless you were hand shooting in low light).
The one I'd been waiting for
Reviewed by: Carl E. Feather, KINGSVILLE, OH USA Review Date: 2008-10-13
I've been a semi-pro digital user for five years. I started wtih a Fuji S2, moved up to the Nikon D2H (horrible reliability, expensive), D2Hs, D200, D300 and finally the D700.
With every camera prior to the D700 there were compromises and Nikon was always two years behind Canon. Finally, when the D3 came out, they were in the lead again, but the price was too much for my semi-pro use to justify. So I struggled along with a pair of D300s for another eight months. The D300 is an excellent camera, however, it has some serious flaws: It overexposes and is particularly hot on the red channel. It's higher ISO performance is mediocre and really kills detail. And it's DX.
I bought a D700 for $2950 and, predictably, the price fell $200 a few days after that. But I needed it for an assignment that would involve shooting in a dimly light garage.
The camera worked perfectly, although once again, I am seeing overexposure in some scenes. The auto WB is much improved over the D300. The dynamic range is much improved, as well. And the AF seems faster.
This camera has me going back to prime lenses. The DOF is much shallower and the bokeh much nicer with my 85mm and 50mm lenses on the D700. Eventually, I want to be all primes on the long end. My 300 f/4 gives wonderful results on this body. The 70-200 is a mixed bag. I'm just not happy with the look of the images. They are not as sharp as they are on the D300 (I kept one). Weird. I'm still testing.
I love everthing about the D700 except it's tendency to overexpose and the fact Canon's competitor has video and more MP. Video really should have been on this camera; after all, the D90 at 1/3 the price has it. Nikon dropped the ball by not including it on the D700. Two months after being introduced, the D700 is already a somewhat obsolete camera, thanks to Canon's offering of more mp and video.
All that said, as a Nikon user I'm glad to finally have 5D image quality in a full-frame Nikon, even though it comes at a premium. I feel the current combo of the D300/D700 will last me for several years, and will eventually result in a transition to almost all prime lenses, if Nikon ever gets its act together and offers some worthy wide angle primes to match with this body. Meantime I find the 35 f/2, 50 f/1.4, 85 f/1.4, 105 micro, 180 f/2.8 and 300 f/4 to be excellent matches for this body. The Beast 28-70 f/2.8 is also a good performer on this body, as is the 14-24 f/2.8. The 70-200 f/2.8 is questionable.
Be sure to get the grip for best balance and extended battery life. I find the D700 has better battery performance than the D300. Also if you do portraits, get a portrait Expo Disc and download the portrait custom setting for your camera. The results are very nice.
A dream come true for long-time film users!
Reviewed by: J. Gwen Ingram, Dexter, OR USA Review Date: 2008-08-20
The Nikon D700 is exactly the digital SLR that I envisioned when I first heard that such an animal existed. After over a quarter-century of shooting film and gradually realizing the advantages digital holds for me through using a high-end point-and-shoot as an adjunct to my faithful old Nikon SLR film camera, I eagerly bought a D70s ... and was exceedingly frustrated and disappointed. My familiar old lenses responded differently (the 1.5 "multiplier effect") ... when they responded at all (a "non-CPU" lens could be mounted, but all camera exposure and metering functions were disabled, making the result disadvantageous even compared to a pre-AF film body and lens).
Not any more! Even though the D700 was primarily intended to be used with auto-focusing (AF) lenses, it also functions superbly with my non-CPU (manual focus) lenses, only losing the "shutter priority" and "program" modes (because, of course, the camera can't alter the aperture ... that's my job on any non-CPU lens) ... the D700 can even give me focusing feedback after I enter a manual lens's information into the D700's menu. I once more feel like I have good, quick control over the aspects of photography that create the character of my photographs. No more fumbling with lots of fingers over several sets of buttons to tell the camera the simplest things ... it's back to rotating the focus and aperture rings (or not, if I choose the AF lenses).
And the annoying "multiplier effect" is gone with the D700's full-frame ("FX") sensor. My 50mm lens -- my mainstay -- is now a true 50mm lens again (if you have to ask why that matters, the D700 isn't for you). I personally don't pursue wide-angle photography, but I definitely can see how those who do (and who haven't been able to afford a D3) will be doing cartwheels if they can get their hands on a D700.
The D700's viewfinder is also light years above my D70s, making everything from focusing to composition that much easier and more precise. The D700's whopping big LCD screen is also a big advantage. When in review mode, the display is large ... or, at my choice, the increased data option shrinks the thumbnail to a still-valuable size and places the data around the photo instead of over it like the D70s does.
I'm finding the grip very comfortable, and although the weight is hefty compared to any point-and-shoot, it is a well-balanced camera and that weight doesn't bother me. Being able to shoot in RAW mode is resulting in not only better end-result photos for me, but also (once I get the RAW files on my computer) much more accurate feedback on what I can improve about my technical choices ... and one of digital photography's most significant advantages is that faster feedback. Also of note for those who like working in RAW, unlike the D70, I now have the option to shoot ONLY in RAW mode, not just RAW + JPEG, and that saves valuable memory space.
My only negative comment so far is that Nikon's proprietary software (included with the D700) is necessary to download photos to one's computer. I'll adapt, but it just seems an unnecessary restriction.
Even though it's priced well under the other full frame Nikon, the D3, the D700 certainly does not come cheap. For me, it was the only affordable solution, and well worth every penny. If you spent years shooting film and count a bundle of old Nikon lenses among your close friends, the D700 is going to make you wonder if you'll ever stop grinning!
***
Update, November 21, 2008: I've had the D700 for three months now. Three months isn't a long time to evaluate durability, and I'm certainly not one of those people who shoots 1000 or more captures a week (I still have frugal film habits), but early use is one of the common timeframes for quality problems to surface. I'm certainly pleased that I've experienced no problems with the camera's function.
The D700 continues to exceed my expectations as a camera and as a true successor to my film camera. It has put the fun back into photography for me -- once set up to my preferences, the D700 stays out of my way and lets me photograph the way I have for decades, with the pleasing results I'm used to getting ... and with all the advantages of digital capture. Despite my miserly film-born habits, I've happily made enough digital images to account for almost half the camera body's purchase price if those captures were translated to film and developing.
Now that I've established a workflow (Nikon Transfer to Adobe Bridge CS3 to Photoshop CS3), having to use Nikon Transfer for downloading images is a non-issue at home. On the road, though, I'll have to wait until returning to my own computer (with the Nikon Transfer software) to see my pics, so this is still a definite limitation.
What has totally blown my mind is the D700's performance in low light. I never expected high ISO captures to be so useable, let alone what I've gotten at ISO 6400. I'm shooting in the house with ambient lighting and no flash and actually getting a high percentage of "keepers"! No longer do I shrug and say "too bad, not enough light" nor does a flash disturb my subject and alter or destroy the mood. I've also found I can capture good images at indoor events and competitions (such as llama and horse shows) without flash, making my presence a non-issue instead of a potential disruption. As a result, the D700 has given me a brand new opportunity to capture a significant segment of my world in pixels.
No, ISO 6400 image quality is not equivalent to ISO 200, nor is it often really suitable for 100% size printing or display (11.8"x17.7"). But for smaller prints and display (in the 25-50% range), it's remarkable, and certainly superior to anything I could possibly have captured with any other DSLR (besides the D3, which has the same sensor), let alone on film (because I primarily shoot nature outdoors, I never could justify loading any film higher than ISO 400 in my Nikon FE). I have never in my life had anything printed larger than 8x12 with one exception, and usually I've not even printed that large, so the limitations on the D700's ISO 6400 are minimal for me (and what it can do is still not achievable otherwise). To see some actual samples, you're welcome to go to my Flickr photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fishingcat) and search for photos tagged with Nikon D700 and ISO 6400, or just search for Nikon D700 and look at the EXIF data for the resulting photos if you prefer. Unless the photo is also tagged with "noise ninja", it has NO noise reduction (I'm from film, remember -- minimal digital post-processing skills at this time!. If you have and use noise-reduction software, you already know what further improvements can be made in the dark areas of the captures.
I do have one new quibble with the D700 -- I wish Nikon had not limited the non-CPU lens menu to only ten lenses. Because I'm coming from years of comfort with shooting manual focus lenses on film, that's what I do on the D700 ... and as a result, I've got all ten slots full! If I want to use a teleconverter (or if I acquire any other manual focus lenses), I have to re-program one or more of the slots. Hopefully Nikon will provide a firmware update to address this, although I'm not holding my breath either. Certainly a huge percentage of people love their autofocus lenses; the demand and financial return to NIkon for such an update probably isn't significant from a marketing standpoint.
I'm also finding that it would have been more logical for the Auto-ISO setting to be available through the dedicated ISO button instead of in the shooting menu. Again, a possible firmware update could address this ... if Nikon feels it's warranted. It's not impossible to work around, just less convenient than it could be. I'm not sure if other currently available DSLRs share this arrangement or not.
Initially I would have said that those people who started photography with DX format (or who converted to digital years ago) would not see any major benefit in the D700. Now I'm not so sure.
Certainly anyone who has only DX lenses would be financially impacted by also needing to purchase good full-frame lenses to actually benefit from the D700's full-frame capabilities; anyone whose preferences include telephoto and wildlife photography will also be disadvantaged by losing the "reach" that the 1.5x DX multiplier provides if they sell their current Nikon DSLR to finance a D700. (You can use DX lenses on the D700, but they use a smaller portion of the sensor, resulting in a lower MP image ... hardly a reasonable use of a $2.5K+ camera.)
However, for low ambient light photography, the D700 has no equal (other than the significantly more expensive D3). Before experiencing what the D700 can do, I said, "Well, I don't really use high ISO, so I don't need that capability." Now that I have the capability, I'm really using it, and I wouldn't give it up for anything.
Fortunately, even if the choice is not entirely clear-cut, the choices ARE there. Thank you, Nikon!!!
Great camera body, worth my wait to go digital
Reviewed by: Francisco Solareslarrave, DeKalb, IL Review Date: 2009-02-05
First things first: I had waited for a camera like this to go digital. Of course, as part of my transition and as a way to cope with the learning curve, I decided to look at this camera as if it were some type of cross between the Nikon F100 and the F5. It does have the heft of the latter, and the ease of use of the former. The complexity of the menus was intimidating at first, but a couple of evenings with the manual, camera in hand, took care of most of my questions. Now, I simply take photographs with my film lenses and the behemoth I purchased to accompany this camera: the AF-S 24-70 f2.8.
Even for a newbie in the digital world, this camera is fairly uncomplicated; since the layout resembles so much that of the F100, the photographic part of the workflow was a joy. However, things get complicated in the digital end: 1. Do I have to shoot RAW, JPEGs, both? 2. What to do with RAW files? 3. How to download them to the computer? 4. Which type of cards works well with the camera? 5. Do I need Nikon software absolutely?
Answers found:
1. Not necessarily; the best compromise is to shoot RAW and JPEGs at the same time, but it may create storage crisis.
2. One can treat RAW files as digital negatives and that helps in case one screws up a JPEG.
3 Either from the camera or with a card reader, the choice is personal. I've done both, and found I like the card reader better because it won't use camera juice.
4. Best: Sandisk Extreme III or Lexar Pro, with a transfer speed of at least 80 MB/sec.
5. No, unless one wants to replicate some of the in-camera editing.
And this brings me to something else: the D-Lighting magic wand! I simply love this feature, but I don't use it while shooting, as it creates an unnecessary amount of noise. However, together with the color rendition, I like D-Lighting a lot. I dislike the fact that not all AF sensors were created equal (some in the periphery are not cross-sensitive), but then, it's relatively easy to work around this problem. In short, for those going digital from an extensive film background, it's an excellent camera body, and it will remain unparallelled for a long time. Who needs more megapixels when the camera is so well-crafted?
Did I mention that it fell on the floor on my third day of ownership? Granted, it fell of a chair because I pulled the strap with my foot. Nothing happened. Also, I took it on a walk in the frigid winter of IL, and the camera worked as well as any of my other weather-resistant Nikon bodies.
One recommendation: do not use the Nikon strap. It hurts! From experience carrying heavy cameras, get a slightly elastic strap, as the camera can be very heavy, esp. when combined with the 24-70 or the 80-200.
18 New — prices too low to display (click "More Info" or "Add to Cart" button to see prices)
5 Used from $1,349.95
The All New D300s Has Now Begun Shipping
The rugged D300S' hallmarks include versatility, speed, agility and exceptional image quality. Versatility is its 12.3-megapixel, DX-format CMOS image sensor, with Nikon EXPEED image processing that captures stunning low-noise stills and extraordinary 24 fps, 720p HD video with sound. Speed is split-second startup and continuous shooting at up to 7 fps-8 fps with the optional MB-D10 grip, which also extends shooting capacity and makes shooting more comfortable. Accurate image review, Live View shooting and Menus come alive on a 3-inch tempered glass-protected, 920k-dot LCD monitor, while image quality is bolstered by a 51-area AF system and Nikon's 1,005-pixel RGB exposure sensor, in concert with the newly accelerated Scene Recognition System-technology that increases exposure and AF accuracy, improves white balance detection, and more. Photographers have preferences, and the D300S offers choices-including Picture Control, Center-Weighted and Spot Metering, user-assignable CompactFlash and SD card slots and an external stereo microphone input. Included is Nikon ViewNX software-ready to process rich 14-bit NEF (RAW) or JPEG files. For more editing power, optional Capture NX 2, with U-Point technology, safeguards image quality and speeds workflow. The D300S' pro-level performance, paired with world-famous NIKKOR lenses, was engineered to exceed the expectations of demanding photographers.
Nikon's D300s. Fast. Precise. Agile. Evolution in Motion.
12.3-megapixel DX-format CMOS Image Sensor Delivers stunning high resolution, low-noise images with striking detail and tonal gradation.
Continuous Shooting up to 7 fps High speed shooting and fast response-essential to versatile performance in a wide variety of shooting disciplines.
Nikon EXPEED Image Processing Drives breathtakingly rich image fidelity, low noise and fast image processing.
12-megapixel CMOS image sensor for high resolution, low-noise images
Body only; lenses sold separately
Nikon EXPEED image processing; D-Movie HD Video for cinematic 24 fps, 720p HD movie clips
3-inch Super-density 920,000-dot VGA LCD; one-button Live View
Capture images to SD/SDHC memory cards (not included)
The Camera of My Dreams (But know what you're buying)
Reviewed by: Daniel Neve, Salt Lake City, UT, USA Review Date: 2009-12-07
Hello everybody, My name is Daniel and I am about as serious as you can be and still be considered "amateur". I have been taking photos on SLR's since I was 10 years old on an old film Minolta and I bought my first DSLR (a Nikon D50) and since then I have owned everything from a base line Canon XSi all the way up to the the best camera I have ever handled... the D300s. I have operated the D3, D3s, D3x and the top of the line professional $10k Canons, and this is still my favorite ALL AROUND camera. So here is the break down to why I love this camera and I will give you a list of pros and cons. I love this camera for many reasons... [...]... not many people can justify spending another $4,000 (2-3 times the money) when they are looking to spend around $1,500- $2,000 for a good DSLR. So here is the benefits that I see to D300s over the other great Nikon models.
1. if you are into sports the D300s has a higher continuous frame rate than other models including the ever so popular full frame D700. With it's DX sensor it has a crop factor of 1.5 which means more bang for you buck when using a telephoto zoom lens. If you purchase the MB-D10 battery pack it will shoot at even higher speeds of 8fps when using continuous shooting and also allows for up to nearly 5,000 pictures to be taken on one charge (when upgraded battery is purchased). With 51 auto-focus and 3-D tracking you are almost guaranteed to have your subject in focus every time you take a picture. The D300s also features Active D Lighting which makes to so your pictures end up properly exposed so you don't end up with areas of under and over exposure which tend to be common in sports and in shadowy landscape photography
2. Freedom: although all Nikon DSLR's allow you to manually adjust your settings they are difficult to change until you get to the semi-pro D300 model. If you understand f-stops, DOF, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focus points, light metering and other technical jargon and really want to experiment with all of these then a D300s is the camera for you. with shooting modes including: single, cont. low speed, high speed, timer, quiet, and mirror up mode this camera gives you all the freedom you could ever ask for.
3. Learning: this camera will make you learn the true in's and out's of photography. With the very accurate light meter it's not very hard to get the exposure right. No matter what your ISO and f stop is at.
4. User interface. With the dedicated live view and info button new to the D300s over the original D300 it cuts menu times down significantly however it no longer has the memory card hatch release switch. The D300s includes great features such as custom menus, easy to understand menus with the classic (?) button which will explain every camera function in easy to understand terms. On the fly changes include ISO, WB, Quality, shooting modes, a user adjusted fn button, AF/AE lock, light metering, and af adjustments. So the only limitations are your imagination. Selecting your focal point is as easy as looking in the viewfinder and pushing the directional button and watching the selector move around until you have exactly the right spot selected. With two selectors (one for shutter speed and one for f stop) it allows you to never have to take your eye out out of the viewfinder.
The bottom line (why you would choose this over any other Nikon DSLR):
why you'd choose this over the D90: 51point AF w/ 3D tracking, more fps, control of image adjustments, not much more money for a lot more freedom and creativity, contrast auto-focusing during movies, ability to utilize dual card slots (CF and SD), 14bit RAW, Active D Lighting.
Over the D700: full 12MP when using DX lenses rather than 5MP, more fps, $600-$1,000 less, movie mode, smaller pixels for more refinement at low ISO, 100% viewfinder coverage
Over the D3 and D3x: A ton of money, shooting speed, optimization of DX and FX lenses and movie mode, and built in flash, 100% viewfinder coverage which allows for better framing.
This is a great camera HOWEVER NOTE THE FOLLOWING!!!!!
The D700, D3,x,s have FX photo sensors which allow for a much bigger and brighter view finder, it also allows for a wider view (no crop factor instead of 1.5x like the DX) which means if you want more area in your pictures for such things as landscapes then the D700 or the D3 lineup maybe a better option because a 50mm lens in a DX camera looks the same as a 75mm lens on an FX camera.
The D700 and D3 lineup (minus the D3x) utilize the large FX sensor and still only have a 12MP capacity which means that the pixels are larger which allows for better depth of color, better definition in shadows, and better high ISO clarity. The D300 can go to extended ISO of 6400 however the image quality is poor at best when the D3 can shoot ISO 6400 all day long and look great. The D700 also does better at high ISOs than the D300 does because it has the same sensor as the D3 however the D3 still does better than the D700 at extreme ISOs. However also consider the fact that the smaller the image sensor the larger the depth of field so the D700 and the D3 are better for macro or portrait photography and the D300 will give you a larger DOF equivalent to about one f-stop.
THIS IS NOT A VIDEO CAMERA video is pretty good and the utilization of lenses is a great feature however if you want good video spend the money on a video camera. Even a Flip HD does better. The camera produces good video but it doesn't do well during panning if you plan on putting the camera on a tripod and filming then by all means its fine and with the option for an external mic to give you stereo sound is nice.
When it comes to portability, price, features, weight, usability, image adjustments ect. I personally believe it doesn't get any better I hope this review helped and I hope you get one too and really enjoy it as much as I have. This camera is the best of all worlds. I say save the money from an FX camera and buy a really nice lens or two or three for that matter. Anyway here is the camera of my dreams and hopefully the camera in your bag shortly I promise you'll love it, I know I do.
UPDATE: For all you HDR photographers look no further than the D300s you can easily create HDR photos by selecting "multiple exposures" and then setting up multi-step exposures for + or - EV per exposure and after the exposures are done voila you have a beautiful HDR photo. Keep in mind however: you will need a cable release (I recommend the MC-36) for the multiple exposures. OR take a few pictures at different exposures and overlay the photos in the in camera retouch menu and there you have it perfect HDR photos every time! Goodbye Photoshop (for HDR anyway)
The D300s and flash compatibility: I have noticed almost no one has talked about the fantastic flash compatibility with the D300s over many cameras. I figured it needed to be covered so here it goes: The D300s is a DREAM to work with when paired with any Nikon Speedlight Dynamic Lighting System. My favorite and most frequently used flash is the SB-600 Speedlight which can be wirelessly operated for NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE with the D300s, you just have to know what settings to change. Unlike the D3 which has to either have a hot shoe flash controller unit or an SB-800 ($900) the D300s can operate a nearly unlimited number of flashes wirelessly without any accessories. So if you are like so many other Nikon users and own an SB-600 just push and hold the "Zoom" and the "-" button at the same time until you get to custom menu and cycle through until you can adjust the squiggly Z shaped line and turn it to on and it defaults to channel 3 then either push and hold the "zoom" and "-" button to get out of the menu or just push the power button. Then go to the "Custom Setting Menu" (the pencil) on your D300s and change "e3" "flash cntrl for built-in flash" to the Commander mode and set to channel 3, and pop up your built in flash and there you go...ABSOLUTELY FREE WIRELESS FLASH with perfect exposure compensation every time using a $250 flash unit. Hope it helps someone I know it helped me so have fun and remember to change it back to TTL flash when you're done.
UPDATE #2: I have had a lot of question on why you would get this over a D300 and here you go the main reasons for buying the D300s over the D300 is the designated info button, and live view button, movie mode, designated okay button instead of one crappy directional selector, quiet mode AND dual memory card slots. It's also 7 months newer so you won't have an out dated camera as soon. It also has slightly different menus and new software for shooting modes including landscape, and portrait modes.
Thoughts on Upgrade from D70 to D300s
Reviewed by: Sammy, San Francisco, CA Review Date: 2009-10-26
I recently got a D300s for shooting pictures of my 3-year old. Previously, I used a Nikon D70, a 6-megapixel DSLR. I honestly think that the D70 is a fine camera and takes beautiful pictures if you use good lenses with it, but I got the D300s because it is much faster at focussing (51 focus sensors vs. 5 focus sensors), and can snap pictures at 7 frames per second (versus 3 frames per second for the D70). So now I feel I'm getting great pictures of my fast-moving daughter that I probably would have missed with my older camera. As for the quality of the pictures themselves, I don't notice any significant improvement from the D70, which already produced excellent pictures as long as things were moving slowly enough for it to lock focus.
The bottom line is this: If you're often dealing with fast-moving subjects, then the very fast focus and the machine-gun like 7 frames per second capability of the D300s will maximize your chances of getting good shots. The reason to get this camera is for its SPEED. That's what you're paying extra for when you buy this camera over a lower-priced Nikon SLR. If, on the other hand, you don't need the high speed (e.g., landscape and scenery pictures), then get a D40 or D90 and use the money you save on a good lens.
I actually planned to purchase the D300 as replacement for the D200 that used to be the backup for my D3, when Nikon announced the D300s. I placed the unit on pre-order with Amazon and received it shortly after the official launch date.
First impressions out-of-the-box was that the unit is as solidly built as the D200 with a good grip and feel. Controls are well placed and within easy reach for manual shooters. I've now used mine for almost one month, primarily with the Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 lens, and some telephoto shooting with the 80-400mm Nikkor zoom. Focusing is fast and sharp, and picture quality is very good, with outside shots at ISO200 almost comparable to the D3. Shutter actuation sounds very smooth and quiet compared to the D3 and I used the D300s extensively inside some cathedrals without feeling embarrassed.
I do lots of manual shooting, but also took many shots in P-mode with exceptional results and perfect exposure. Color rendition is great and noise is minimal, even at ISO800 on some of the indoor shots. This camera is a great option for any semi-pro or professional photographer and I give it a 5-star rating with confidence.
One con is the fact that there is no menu option for having a PC see the D300s as a drive letter, so you need to use a Windows utility or the Nikon software to transfer files to the PC, unless you use an external card reader of course. I have logged a call with Nikon regarding this and will update this post when I hear from them. Another feature that are being criticized by some reviewers is the video capability. Of course this is a still camera and the video option is a nice-to-have. The couple of videos that I have taken looks quite good to me, but I am not a videographer, and if I were, I would have purchased a video camera without expecting it to take great photographs.
As a former D90 owner (and I dont have complains of it) this is clearly a big step ahead. I spend most of my shooting in the outdoors and clearly the D300s is a camera designed for a much more rough use, although it shares functions and characteristics with the D90, but I dont regret at all the upgrade. Its a very fast and accurate machine in all its functions, wonderful image quality and small learning curve, I can see a difference in the image quality. The video is a nice addition. Completely recommended.
Great Camera with splendid attributes and picture quality
Reviewed by: Cesar Moreno, New york Review Date: 2009-09-23
After being an olympus SLR user for 3 years (honestly without any complains) I decided to switch to Nikon for various reasons, but particularly for the high ISO capabilities. These camera has met and surpassed all my expectations, and continues to amaze me with every set of pictures I upload. The camera is extremely well built, it is responsive, and the quality of the pictures is great. The video is a great attribute but it needs some tweaking if you want to improve your footage. I would recommend using a tripod and avoid fast moving objects because of the 'rolling shutter' problem that all video SLR cameras still have. Putting this aside, it is obvious that the purpose of this camera is for photography and I have no complains regarding this. I would recommend this camera to any semi-professional or enthusiast photographer that wants an upgrade.
The D3S is uniquely qualified to meet the changing needs of photographers whose assignments demand 100% from them and their equipment. Leading with uncompromising FX-format multimedia versatility and engineered for demanding professional use at up to 9 fps, the D3S' rugged magnesium alloy construction, comprehensively sealed against dust and moisture, delivers on its promises of superiority. Exacting moments in time are captured to an expanded buffer, allowing continuous capture of up to 82 JPEG (fine) or 36 14-bit NEF (RAW) images.
Nikon's newly engineered, original 12.1-megapixel CMOS sensor, teamed with exclusive technologies such as EXPEED image processing, Nikon's Scene Recognition System and a fast, accurate 51-area AF system, work together to assure that both still and smooth 24 fps HD video files exhibit incredible edge-to-edge sharpness, rich color depth and broad tonal range, while barrier-breaking performance enables low-noise ISO sensitivity to 12,800.
Expanded ISO sensitivities of 25,600, 51,200 and an astounding 102,400, shatter many long-standing rules of photography. Audio to accompany HD video is preserved with a built-in microphone, while high fidelity stereo sound is recorded through the external Mic input using an optional microphone. More proven technologies include Nikon's renowned 1,005-pixel RGB 3D Color Matrix Metering II, assuring exacting exposure evaluation and white balance detection. Precise image review and menu access comes to life with the D3S' tempered glass-protected and individually factory-calibrated 3-inch, 921,000-dot Live View monitor. A self-diagnostic shutter, tested to beyond 300,000 cycles, and a myriad of inherent benefits stemming from decades of Nikon design experience, round out the D3S' qualifications to meet the needs of professional photographers.
12.1-megapixel, FX-format CMOS sensor; 720p HD video capture
Body only; lenses sold separately
Low-noise ISO sensitivity from 200 to 12,800; continuous shooting up to 9fps
Fast, accurate 51-point AF system; Nikon EXPEED image processing
3-inch super-density 921,000-dot VGA LCD; one-button Live View with two shooting modes
Dual CF card slots with overflow, backup and copy options (CF card not included); up to 4,300 images per battery charge
Reviewed by: Thomas R. Sweet, Tampa, FL USA Review Date: 2009-12-10
Update: Images up to ISO 51,200 have very acceptable levels of noise (very little). Worst case, I touched up with Dfine 2.0 (noise reduction software) and they look nearly perfect. I experimented with the movie mode. The camera took some very nice looking videos in extremely low light. I don't know what ISO it used, but it must be hitting ISO 102,400 at times. The video and sound using the internal microphone are really good. I may add an external stereo mic in the future if I shoot video. I should have known, you can't shoot movies in vertical format -- of course -- but I did take some that way before I realized that format doesn't work when you play back on a TV.
I've now got a growing collection of images in various conditions and remain extremely pleased with this camera.
-----------------
I received my new Nikon D3S only a couple of days ago, and my early testing of this camera has already proven it to be much more than I expected. I took a few dozen test shots in nearly complete darkness and with relatively little noise the shots look like they were taken in fairly bright lighting. I am very impressed. In fact, I would even say they are unbelievable.
I love the new "info" button. I passed over the written material before the camera arrived thinking: who cares. Well, I find it to be an extremely helpful feature. When you press the "info" button, it shows not only the exposure settings, but gives you immediate access to several of the relevant menu options that you can then immediately access and make changes. I find this to be very quick and useful.
The D3S seems a bit bigger than my Nikon D2Xs and other professional bodies I use, but it feels like it's built absolutely solid. Of course, since the D3S is an FX (full frame) sensor, I have heavier lenses attached and in my bag too. I love the D3S ergonomics and the programmable function and other buttons (programmable AE/AL and Preview button). I hate to fumble with menus in the field (sorry Canon 1ds Mark III and 5D Mark IV and others, but Nikon has you beat here), and the Nikon gives fast access to all the key settings.
I haven't done extensive image tests yet, but my first impression is the images are superb, color is very accurate and auto focus is very fast and accurate, even in what I'd call "no light." I have usable images at ISO 102,400 (an amazing seven full stops better than other pro-bodies I use). At this point, I still can't believe how good images look at ISO 102,400, and images at ISO 51,200 and 25,600 look nearly perfect with either no high ISO NR (noise reduction) or standard NR.
Looking at my images at high magnification and they appear much clearer than even higher megapixel resolution bodies I use. I am now finally convinced beyond any doubt that megapixel is more of a marketing ploy than meaningful for professional photographers and other factors are more important.
As a pro who uses high end digital bodies, this is my first choice (maybe my only choice) for most assignments. I do a fair amount of studio work and thought I might opt for the Nikon D3X or even a Canon body since high ISO is not important, but this camera is so good I may use it for all my photography work in all conditions. If I really need high-end studio shots, I'll perhaps use my Mamiya with a digital back or even rent a Hasselblad.
Amazing low light camera
Reviewed by: R. Adams, Paradise Valley, AZ Review Date: 2009-12-14
The Nikon D3s is an amazing camera and I love it. The vast majority of people looking at buying this camera are talking about it's ISO and low light abilities. Even though there is alot more to this camera than it's amazing new ISO abilities, lets start with it's most unique feature and major selling point.
How good does it's ISO get? How about 12,800! The ISO can be pushed up to 102,400 using the Hi ISO settings.
My tests - Nikon D3s combined with the Nikkor 24-70 2.8 Lens.
I tested the camera at 400 ISO, 800 ISO, 1,600 ISO, 3,200 ISO, 6,400 ISO, and 12,800 ISO both inside in low light and outside at night. I have also tested the Hi 3 or 102,400 ISO setting
The ISO settings look really great up through the 3,200 mark. After that one can a little notice grain/noise up to the 12,800 ISO point. I would not hesitate at all running this camera at 1,600 or 3,200 ISO. BTW - Pictures taken at 12,800 are usable. They look really good. But there is a little noise as I said. The 102,400 setting creates all sorts of noise/grain, but that should be expected. So far the pictures I've take at the highest setting basically turns this camera into your own "night vision" camera. It can see in very dark surroundings.
More on the D3s
- This camera is rugged. Over the holidays, I had it outside in snow storms, rain, and sub freezing temperatures. It performed flawlessly.
- Info button - New to the D3s and really nice. It displays information such as f-stop, shutter speed, mode, and remaining pictures on monitor/display screen on the back
- Live view - there are 2 setting here. One for a tripod and one for handheld use. Turn this on, and you have a view of what you see through the viewfinder on your back monitor. I personally don't use this alot, but can see why others would.
- Accurate and fast auto focus using the 24-70 2.8 lens and my 14-24 2.8 lens
- HD Video at 720p
- Amazing 9 fps. Yes, I tested this, and I love it. I shoot motorsports and was hampered by the slower D2Xs as well as the smaller buffer on the D2Xs
- Sensor cleaning - done through the menu system on the back monitor.
- Quiet mode (Which isn't that much quieter than the default sound)
- 51 point Auto Focus system
- FX metering system (remember if you use a DX lens on this camera, the FX sensor with crop your photo. It appears like a gray box inside the vewfinder cropping your edges)
My Favorite addition (actually useful and I love it) - The Virtual Horizon. This looks like something you would find in the cockpit of an airplane and not a camera, but here it is in the D3s. It is a line that gives the photographer the correct horizon. Why is this so cool? Imagine anything from nature photography in the mountains (like standing on a slope) to photographing motorsports on a banked oval track (that would be me). Here is the function that allows photos to have proper alignment. I could see this function being used both on a tripod and hand held.
*Update on pictures*
- Having spent more time photographing in low light, the 12,800 ISO setting is mind blowing.
- Pictures outside at night - I took pictures of dark lawns, streets, and some holiday lights. Contrast is good as is saturation. There is some grain/noise, but it is uniform and not that bad.
- Pictures in dimly lit rooms - less noise and the colors and saturation are great. These images were sharp too. I toggled between manual mode and program mode to fool with the depth of field and bokeh. The brighter the room, the less the noise/grain. (Again these are ALL situations that would have required a flash with any other camera)
- Pictures of stars - Yup. Stars in the sky. I was actually able to hand hold this camera, aim it in the sky and snap a picture of stars. The picture didn't look that great, but considering I did it on a whim it was still really neat. (The camera picked up alot of haze in the sky. I think away from the city, the photos would be a lot better)
I've now taken well over 1,000 pictures with the D3s and it is easily the best camera I have owned. I am really impressed
---------------------------
Update on one D3s issue - DPreview forums have reported numerous instances of D3s with a slow focus problem. They say it is a firmware bug. I have NOT had any issues and I am 2,000+ photos into my D3s. That includes many lowlight shoots.
I love this camera!
Reviewed by: Bernhard J. Gaarsoe, Park City, Utah Review Date: 2010-01-22
I initially started this comment as a reply to someone who asked why anyone would need a camera that goes higher than 12,000 ISO unless you wanted to take pictures in a closet, especially since you can get a much less expensive consumer-level DSLR with more mega pixels and higher resolution video. I decided to post my response here with the hope than someone else might find it to be useful:
For the past couple of years, I have been using a Nikon D80, which from all the reviews I have read competes fairly well with other cameras in this class. I am not a professional photographer, but I enjoy photography enough that the limitations this consumer-level DSLR seems to have became a source of frustration to me.
I recently upgraded to a D3S, and I am absolutely amazed at the difference between the two cameras. The D3S is ten times the camera--and not because of the marginal difference in mega pixels.
It's not all about being able to take pictures in near darkness either. I take a lot of wildlife pictures with a solid, f 4.5 70-300mm zoom lens (popular because of its good price/performance tradeoff), and with my D80, if I am zoom out much at all, it has to be a bright sunny day to get really good pictures. Cloud cover and even shade results in quite a bit of color noise and a loss of detail, even at ISO settings as low as 400, and I almost always have to shoot with the aperture wide open to mitigate these problems, which, of course, limits my flexibility in terms of depth of field and tends to wash out bright areas. It is also very difficult to stop the motion of things like birds in flight with the low ISO settings that are required to avoid color noise and loss of detail. This is a very frustrating tradeoff to have to make.
With my D80, I have also noticed that the shading gradation of things like fog and shadows in snow is fairly limited--to the point where pictures of things with subtle shading almost always look washed out or have very little detail. The D3S, on the other hand, has an amazing amount of detail no matter what the subject is, no matter how subtle the shading and despite poor lighting conditions. (For the first time ever, I have been able to take pictures of things like fog rolling over a lake and have it show up just the way my eyes see it! No more blending of subtle shades into a single patch of white.)
My D80 also struggles to be consistent with color balance and metering. The D3S is almost always dead on in terms of color balance and metering and is faster and more consistently accurate with its auto focus.
The fact that the D3S's image sensor does such a great job in low light situations has opened up new possibilities for me. I can even stop down my slow f 4.5 300mm zoom lens significantly at any focal length and get outstanding results, even on a cloudy day. Think about the possibilities this opens up in terms of lens choices. As an amateur, I simply cannot afford the 10K-a-pop, fast professional lenses, but now I can get great pictures with slower, less expensive lenses, and I can actually extend the capabilities of the lenses I have with things like teleconverters and still get good results. In this sense, the D3S is a bargain.
I have mostly mentioned the quality of the pictures this camera takes, and I do not intend to go into its rich feature set and build quality (other comments below have already done this), but I did want to tell you about some of the considerable advantages I have found with the D3S and tell you about the outstanding results that I have been getting. I am amazed at the quality of the pictures this camera takes, and I am thrilled with the way this camera performs! This camera is in an entirely different class than the consumer-level DSLRs I have used in the past.
Without question the finest Digital SLR available
Reviewed by: Chuck F. Bernard, San Francisco, CA Review Date: 2010-02-08
I was using a Canon 5D Mark II camera for over a year but became more and more disappointed with it as time went on. The focusing system used on the Canon was poor and the high ISO was good but not great.
Finally tiring of the soft focus of the 5D Mark II, I decided to either upgrade to the 1D Mark IV or the Nikon D3S. The decision was a very painful one to make and I dwelled on the subject for weeks before making a decision.
I finally decided on the Nikon D3S because of its full frame sensor and how its relatively large pixel size would be an advantage in low light situations (i.e., High ISO). Also, it didn't hurt that it was available right away through Amazon and I needed it for my trip to Europe at the end of December.
Now, after having used the Nikon D3S for around 2 months in a variety of situations I can say without hesitation that this is the finest DSLR available. Its ability to shoot sports action in low light is stunning and the focus is very responsive and always spot on! The lenses which I have purchased have all been superior to their Canon equivalent counterparts. Although, the Nikon does have some wholes in their lineup, most notably the the 85mm f/1.2.
While I believe that the filming features of the 1D Mark IV are likely superior it was a mute point for me after a year of experiences with the 5d Mark II. Unless you are very serious you will not get good results filming with any DSLR so I did not consider this when deciding which camera to buy.
In conclusion, I was very nervous about buying the Nikon D3S instead of the Canon 1D Mark IV. However, after using the D3S in a variety of situations I have absolutely fallen in love with this camera.
Love it
Reviewed by: David Johnson, Newton Grove, NC Review Date: 2009-12-18
I have had my D3s a week and have already shot over 500 photos. I also have a D3. I do a lot of high school basketball. I used to shoot the D3 at 3200 to 4000. In experimenting with the D3s, I shot some at 8000 and it looks as good as the D3 at 5000. It was a natural extension for me since I have always used Nikon. The extra couple of stops lets me shoot at 500 at f4/f5.6 without problem.
8 New — prices too low to display (click "More Info" or "Add to Cart" button to see prices)
22 Used from $775.00
Canon's new EOS 50D bridges the gap between the novice and the seasoned pro with a perfect combination of high-speed and quality. It features an APS-C sized 15.1-megapixel CMOS sensor for tremendous images, new DIGIC 4 Image Processor for fine detail and superior color reproduction, and improved ISO capabilities up to 12800 for uncompromised shooting even in the dimmest situations. It features a refined 3.0-inch Clear View LCD (920,000 dots) monitor, supercharged Live View Function with Face Detection Live mode, plus a number of new automatic Image Correction settings and HDMI output for viewing images on an HDTV. Pick up the EOS 50D and you'll experience true digital inspiration!
15.1-megapixel CMOS sensor with improved noise reduction
Body only; lenses sold separately
Enhanced Live View shooting includes Face Detection Live mode
New Lens Peripheral Illumination Correction setting; HDMI output
Capture images to Compact Flash Type I or II memory cards (not included)
Detailed Review of the Canon 50D - I love this Camera!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reviewed by: Jodi-Ann Richards, Mia, FLA USA Review Date: 2008-10-09
SECTION 1: WHO IS THIS REVIEW FOR
This review is close to 10 pages long because it was written for people who are not proficient with the terms and concepts used in the DSLR world. If you are a proficient DSLR user then I would recommend that you check one of the much shorter reviews here or dpreview. For example, you already know what vignetting is and therefore understand the importance of the new lens peripheral illumination correction feature. However, a new DSLR buyer does not know what this means and this is why I therefore explain what each feature really is so these people can then decide if the feature is really important to them.
If you have not done so as yet, be sure to also check out my reviews of the Canon 7D and Canon 40D as well.
SECTION 2: INTRODUCTION
It has been just over a year now since I purchased my Canon 40D. At the time, I was just beginning to take my photography really serious. Since then, a lot has changed. I have now become a semi-pro. I still have my full-time job as an IT Manager here in Miami. However, I do a lot of photography work, especially events, on the weekends.
I really love my 40D but as I started doing more and more professional work I realized three things:
1. I needed a second camera body
2. I needed a camera with a more professional focusing system.
3. I needed a camera with even higher ISO performance
It was rumored back then that the replacement for the Canon 5D would be out in the first quarter of 2008. I decided to wait for it. However, when the time came there was no news from Canon about the 5D replacement. This was back in March 2008. The Nikon D300 had now been out for a while by then. I thought about buying it but I decided to wait until it was fully reviewed by dpreview as I wanted to see if Nikon had really finally addressed the high ISO performance issues. I ordered it one day after it was reviewed by Phil Askey on dpreview.
Since then, I have been using both the Canon 40D and the Nikon D300. I know it is a bit of a strange combo. People are always surprised when they see that I am using a Canon and a Nikon together.
I took all three cameras - Canon 40D, Canon 50D and Nikon D300 - over the weekend to the Miami Seaquarium to see how the new Canon 50D compared with both of them.
SECTION 3: NEW/CHANGED FEATURES
A. High-resolution LCD Screen
The LCD screen is still 3 inches. However, Canon has now increased the resolution from 230,000 dots to 920,000 dots which is the same as that found on the Nikon D300. Of course, this makes it a lot easier to check images on playback to see if they are sharp and in focus. More important, however, is the fact that Canon added a two layer anti-reflective coating which makes it way easier now to review images in bright sunlight. It is a lot easier to review images on the Nikon D300 than the Canon 40D. However, the Canon 50D definitely surpasses the Nikon D300 when reviewing images in bright sunlight.
B. 15.1 Megapixel CMOS Sensor
I think the MP increase is the biggest surprise to me since Canon has always been conservative when it comes to this. However, this increase now seems to be the trend as the new Canon EOS 5D Mark II has gone from 12 MP to a whopping 21 MP. I was always puzzled by the fact that the baby Canon Rebel had more MP than its big brother.
I can clearly see the difference in the resolution of the images produced by the 15.1 MP Canon 50D and those from the 10 MP Canon 40D. For a casual shooter this is not a big deal. However, for professionals shooting events this is really useful. Whenever I shoot an event I try not to turn it into a photo shoot. People are there to have fun. That is the first priority. I need to be able to get my shots fast. Many times this means getting the shot and then doing some cropping to make it perfect. Having 15 MP to play with can be a life savior here. Of course, if I only did portraits where I have time to pose my subjects this would be less important to me.
There is a small difference in the resolution of the images from the 15.1 MP Canon 50D and the 12.1MP Nikon D300.
C. High ISO Performance
The ISO setting control how sensitive the image sensor is to light. As the light gets lower you can increase the ISO to avoid using the flash. This is really important when you want to shoot in available natural light such as at dusk or at dawn when the light is really beautiful. Another example is when you want to photograph a bride and groom during the first dance without using the flash so you capture all the romance. The downside to increasing the ISO is that the resulting photos will tend to get grainier as the ISO increase.
The Canon 40D allowed me to go to ISO 1600 and then expand it to ISO 3200. When I just started out doing casual shots this was okay. However, I find that I often needed to go higher than 1600 and of course I was forced to use ISO 3200. On the Nikon D300 I could go all the way up to ISO 3200 standard so if I needed to use anything higher than ISO 1600 I would use the Nikon D300. That way if I only needed ISO 2000 I could use that setting rather than use ISO 3200. I must let you know that Nikon did fix the high ISO performance issues that plagued its DSLRs prior to the Nikon D300.
The Canon 50D now comes with a standard range of ISO 100 to 3200 just like the Nikon D300. However, the concern that I had was that with the big increase in MP count there would be much more noise (grain) at the higher ISOs. The more MP you have the more noise you tend to get at higher ISOs. I would have much preferred a smaller MP count and better high ISO performance. However, the engineers at Canon have really outdone themselves this time. The high ISO performance of the Canon 50D is just as good as the Nikon D300 even though it has 3MP more. Much of this is due to the fact that Canon is now using gapless micro lenses on the image sensor. This seemed to have really increased the light gathering capabilities of the pixels.
The Canon 50D ISO can be expanded to 6400 (H1) and 12800 (H2). The Nikon D300 can only be expanded up to 6400. However, on the Nikon D300 you can go from 3200 to H0.3 and then to H0.7 before you get to H1.0 which is 6400. This is more flexible than having to go straight to 6400 since you should generally try to use lower ISO speeds.
You might be thinking that it is absurd that anyone should want to use ISO 6400 and worse ISO 12800. However, there are times when getting the shot is more important than the quality of the shot itself. A good example here is when shooting sports. If the light becomes very bad for whatever reason you will need to increase your ISO as much as possible to get high enough shutter speeds to freeze the action.
D. Auto ISO Range (100 to 1600)
I have been to Butterfly World on several occasions to get photos of butterflies, birds and the tropical plants there. It is normally very sunny so to save time I shoot in Aperture priority mode. This allows me to simply set the aperture and then let the camera automatically set the shutter speed based on the current ISO and aperture settings. One thing about South Florida is that one minute it can be very sunny and then in just a few minutes it can become real cloudy. The problem this pose is that when it becomes real cloudy the shutter speed selected by the camera can be so low that it would result in camera shake which in turn results in blurry images. When I just started out my photography this actually happened to me as I would simply forget to check the shutter speed that was selected by the camera.
The auto ISO feature lets the camera automatically change the ISO to suit the shooting mode. For example, when in aperture priority mode if the camera detects that the shutter speed selected would result in camera shake it automatically increases the ISO. This feature is available on the Canon 40D. However, the maximum ISO it would automatically set is 800. The Canon 50D will now set ISO up to 1600 which is a lot more flexible.
The Nikon D300 actually takes the auto ISO concept further by allowing you to set the maximum ISO you want the camera to set and the minimum shutter speed you are willing to work with before the camera start to automatically set the ISO. This gives ultimate control to the photographer.
E. Burst Buffer
Another concern I had with the big increase in MP count was the impact it would have on the burst rate. With the MP count going from 10 to 15 this would normally result in a much slower burst rate. However, the new DIGIC IV image processor is a lot faster than the previous DIGIC III processor so the burst rate is pretty much the same at 6.3 frames per second from 6.5 frames per second. If you use a UDMA card with the Canon 50D you can buffer up to close to 90 large/fine JPEGs versus the 75 on the Canon 40D. The Nikon D300 can store up to 100 large/normal JPEGs at a burst rate of 6 frames per second. With the optional MB-D10 batter pack you can get 8 frames per second.
F. Lens Peripheral Illumination Correction
It is just a fact of life that the light entering a lens tends to fall off around the edges. This tends to be more pronounced when the lens is wide open. The resulting photo will appear dark around the edges. You will see it sometimes referred to as Vignetting. It is more common on cheaper lenses. However, even the most venerable and expensive lenses are not immune to this problem. I have sometimes seen it on my professional grade lenses such as the Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS lens and even the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 G lens.
If you have Photoshop CS3 you can quickly correct this problem. However, that is still one more thing that you have to worry about which increases your workflow. The Canon 50D has a database of 26 lenses that it will automatically correct Vignetting for. In addition you can enter another 14 models. This feature can be a really big time saver when you have many photos that were shot with the lens wide open. An example of this would be a photo shoot in natural low light where you have to shoot with the lens wide open most of the times. I remember one such shoot that I did with both the Canon 40D and Nikon D300. When I returned home I had to sit there and review each photo in Photoshop CS3 for Vignetting and fix the ones that I found. This is despite the fact that I had used two professional grade lenses for the photo shoot.
This correction works with JPEG as well as RAW images.
Note that this feature is turned off by default. The reason is that Canon has no idea whether the lens that you are using will work with this feature. Even when you activate it you have to check to make certain that you see "Correction Data Available" which confirms that it does work with your lens. If not you can add your lens to one of the available 14.
The Nikon D300 does not offer Vignetting correction but it does offer chromatic aberration (CA) correction which is not on the Canon 50D. CA is the colored fringes that you sometimes see in photos. The colored fringe normally happens along some edge in the photo where there is strong contrast. A good example is a photo of a white house with green trees in the background. The edge where the green trees meet the white house in the image is a good candidate for some kind of color fringing. Once again, this is something that can be corrected in Photoshop CS3 but anything that can be done by the camera will save a lot of time in post processing.
G. Live View Functionality
If there was one feature that I really missed from back when I had my Canon S5 IS point-and-shoot camera it was face detection. It's a feature that people always asked me about since the Canon 40D and Nikon D300 both had live view but no face detection. When I use live view on the Canon 40D and Nikon D300 I normally focus manually so I can zoom in on the face and then tweak the focus to make sure that it is as sharp as possible. With the 50D I can now save some time by using the new Face Detect live view mode. I also tried it with groups of people and it is pretty good at detecting the faces there as well.
The refresh rate for live view on the Canon 40D/50D is 30 frames per second which is twice that on the Nikon D300 and even the Nikon D3. This makes the Canons better if you want to pan in live view.
One of the biggest advantages of shooting digital is the ability to review a shot immediately to make certain it is good. Because the LCD monitor is just 3 inches, most photographers doing professional work also zoom in to check the focus and sharpness of the photo. You cannot simply look at the brightness of the image on the LCD monitor and assume that the exposure was good. For example, if you are in a dark room and take a photo, when you view it on the LCD monitor it will look very bright but that is because you are in a dark room. The exposure might not be really good and it is possible that the photo is actually underexposed.
When you are doing critical work the best way to review a photo is to view the associated histogram. This is nothing more than a grayscale graph of the tonal values in the photo. An ideal histogram is shaped like a dumb-bell or like a wave that goes up and then down. It goes from black (shadows) on the left and gradually to white (highlights) on the right. A quick check is to see if any of these are clipped (cutoff). If the highlights are clipped it means that something in the photo was overexposed. If the shadows are clipped it means that something was underexposed. If most of the values are to the left (shadows) it generally means that the photo is underexposed. If most of the values are to the right (highlights) it generally means that the photo is overexposed. The Canon 50D has a live view histogram. This is something that is somehow missing from the Nikon D300.
WARNING: If you are coming from a point-and-shoot (P & S) background it is important to understand that live view on a DSLR is different from what you are accustomed to.
(1) The first thing you need to be aware of is that live view is really suitable for still subjects that do not move. A good example of this is if you want to a portrait of your kids where you can get them to stay still. On the other hand, it is not suitable for taking action shots such as your kids playing or of their dance performances. For these action shots you should start out using the sports automatic mode which is for action photography when you don't know how to set your own shooting parameters.
(2) Live View is only available in the creative modes. If you want to use it and you are a beginner you will have to put the camera in Program (P) mode. This is one of the creative modes but the camera set everything for you so you don't have to worry about setting anything. The only thing you will have to remember is to lift up the flash when it is needed.
(3) To use auto focus you will have to press the AF-ON button. You can focus manually the usual way.
H. Quick Control Screen
One feature that I really have enjoyed using on the Canon 40D is to use the LCD screen to set my shooting parameters such as ISO and drive mode. However, I had to push the info button twice for the screen to appear and I still had to use the buttons on the top of the camera. The Canon 50D has improved on this concept. Now all I have to do is push the multi-controller straight down to get into what is now called the Quick Control Screen where the shooting parameters are displayed on the LCD screen. Also, I can now use the multi-controller to simply select any shooting function and the use the quick-control dial to change its settings. Of course, this is a lot easier than having to make selections by pushing different buttons on the top of the camera.
The Nikon D300 has the same kind of functionality here as the Canon 40D. However, the user interface is a lot friendlier on the Canon as the names of all the icons are also displayed as well. Remember that the Nikon D300 is targeted at more advanced shooters so it does not bother with showing the names of icons. It does not even come with any automatic modes like the Canons.
I. Creative Auto Mode
When you use the Full Auto mode the camera controls just about everything. You cannot even decide whether you want to use the flash or use continuous shooting. The Canon 50D no longer has a C3 mode dial. It has a new Creative Auto (CA) mode dial. When you use this mode dial the Creative Auto screen comes up on the LCD monitor. The settings start out just as if you were shooting in full auto mode. However, you can use the multi-controller to select and make changes to any of the following: flash firing, picture brightness, picture style, image-recording quality. You can also decide whether you want to use single, continuous or self-timer shooting.
There is one special change that you can make here that needs special mention. You have probably seen some beautiful portraits where the background is beautifully blurred. This not only makes the subject stands out but also gives the portrait an overall artistic look. The only problem is that you have to be able to set your own aperture to achieve this effect. The Canon 50D has now changed all that. When you are in CA mode, you now have a graphic slider on the Creative Auto screen that you can drag one way to blur the background more and drag it the other way to make the background sharper. There is absolutely no need for you to have any idea about aperture and depth-of-field. You can now produce portraits with beautiful backgrounds (bokeh) simply by dragging a slider!
Since the Nikon D300 is targeted at advanced shooters you won't find something like this on it. It is assumed that if you are buying a camera like that, that you already know how to set your own aperture and shutter speed etc.
J. High ISO Noise Reduction
Earlier on I told you that as you start using really high ISOs you will start noticing more and more grains (noise) in the photos. Cameras like the Canon 40D, Canon 50D and Nikon D300 all offer a custom setting which allows you to specify whether you want the camera to reduce high ISO noise. You might be wondering why the camera does not simply always try to reduce high ISO noise. Well, there is a trade-off involved here. As you try to reduce the noise you will lose some of the details. If you are taking a photograph and you need to preserve details even at the expense of some noise you can simply chose to turn off high ISO noise reduction. If it is more important to get a clean photograph even though you might lose some of the details then you should turn high ISO noise reduction on. One major drawback of using high ISO noise reduction is that it greatly reduces the burst rate. This is another reason why it is turned off by default.
The Canon 40D offers just 2 settings here - on and off. The Canon 50D allows 4 settings - standard, low, strong and disable. This gives you much more flexibility as you can chose to use a low setting rather than just an on setting which is the equivalent of strong.
The Nikon D300 also has 4 settings which are pretty much the same as those on the Canon 50D even though they are named slightly different.
K. Micro AF Adjustment of Lenses
Starting with the Canon 40D, Canon started trickling down some of features from the professional 1D Mark III DSLR. One feature that did not make it down to the Canon 40D is the ability to fine-tune the AF on your lenses. This advance feature is now on the Canon 50D. You can chose to adjust all lenses by the same amount or you can actually adjust up to 20 lenses individually.
This feature is also on the Nikon D300.
L. HDMI Output
One of the biggest advantages of shooting digital is that you can review your shots right away as well as show them to your clients or friends right there if you have a display unit that you can hook your camera up to. Of course the craze these days is HD. Everything just seems to look better in HD. There was no HDMI (High Definition Multimedia Interface) output on the Canon 40D so you could not do a slideshow on a HDTV. With the 50D you can now do that. You can now take some really cool photos of your kids and view them right there on your HD television which makes a huge difference from viewing them on a non-HD display.
The Nikon D300 has this feature.
M. Auto Lighting Optimizer
When you photograph a scene that is evenly lit your camera does a very good job of setting a proper exposure to ensure that your main subject comes out bright enough. However, if the scene contains high contrast areas of brightness and darkness it can trick the camera and cause your main subject to come looking really dark. For example, if you try to photograph your friend with the sun behind him you will most likely find that your friend comes out looking really dark. This is because the bright light from the sun in the background tricks the camera into believing that there is more light on your main subject than there really is.
The auto lighting optimizer feature enables the camera to better handle these kinds of scenarios by lightening the dark areas in a scene such as your friend while still keeping the details in the bright areas such as the sun in the background. This feature was not on the Canon 40D but it was added to the Canon Rebel XSi which came after it. With the Canon 50D you now get this feature but with 4 settings rather than just the enable and disable settings found on the Canon Rebel XSi. You can choose from standard, low, strong or disable.
This feature is on the Nikon D300 with similar 4 settings.
N. New sRAW
There is a new extra small raw file format. With the 50D you now have the option of shooting RAW files at 3.8MP, 7.1MP and of course the whopping 15.1MP.
O. That Darn Print Button
I don't know what is it about that darn print button that Canon just refuses to get rid of it. Yes, it is still there on the Canon 50D. However, this time you can use it as a shortcut to live view. This is a welcome change over the Canon 40D. On that camera I had to store a short cut to live view in the My Menu tab. Now with the Canon 50D I can turn live view on and off by simply pressing the print button.
P. New Function Button
The jump button is still there but its functionality has changed. It is now a function button that you can decide which of the following menu items you want it to activate: LCD Brightness, Image Quality, Exposure Compensation/AEB Setting, Image Jump and Live View Settings. Based on your current shooting scenario you can decide which one of these you want to appear when you press the Function button. For example, at Miami Seaquarium I assigned the LCD Brightness menu to it. This is because the lighting varies greatly from one place to another so I had to keep adjusting the LCD Brightness constantly to review the photos. Instead of having to go through the menu each time it was really convenient to simply press the function button and have the LCD Brightness menu appear - great time saver.
SECTION 4: Is this the right camera for you?
Your buying decision should be based on your requirements, budget and personal preferences.
It is very tempting when comparing the 50D to the 40D to get carried away with the 5MP difference. However, you really need to consider the type of work that you will be doing and the maximum print size that you expect to do. Here is a summary of the maximum print sizes for different megapixels (resolution):
6 megapixels 8" * 10"
8 megapixels 11" * 14"
10 megapixels 13" * 19"
As you can see if your maximum print size is 8" * 10" then you are covered with even a 6 megapixels camera. You should really have a very good reason for needing more than the 10MP found on the Canon 40D.
Here is what you should do. Check off the new/changed features that you think you will need based on where you would like your photography to start and be in a couple of years. If these new/changed features are not really important to you then go with the Canon 40D. You will save yourself some money that you can then use towards buying a good lens. For example, assume that you have $2,000 to spend on both the camera and lens and you are just interested in getting great shots of your children playing soccer and of their dance performances. In that case I would recommend that you get the Canon 40D body ($955) plus the Canon EF 24-105mm L IS lens ($1,040). It is really important to get a good lens. It is better to have a good L lens on a Canon 40D rather than a mediocre lens on the Canon 50D. On the other hand, if you know you want to do strong professional work and you definitely want a Canon then I can highly recommend the Canon 50D with its new/changed more advanced features. You will not be disappointed with this camera. So far I have found it to live up to everything that it promises. I am really blown away by the fact that Canon could really pack so many MP into that sensor and still give great high ISO performance on par with that of the Canon 40D and Nikon D300.
The decision between the Canon 50D and the Nikon D300 is a little bit trickier. Last year when I purchased the Canon 40D, the body was going for $1,299. This means that Canon has only added $100 to make the price $1,399 for the Canon 50D. When the Nikon D300 launched last year, the body was going for $1,799. This difference in price plus the fact that there are still many features on the Nikon D300 that are not on the Canon 50D, tell me that Canon is still not trying to compete directly with the Nikon D300. This is reinforced by the fact that Canon has now even added a Creative Auto mode which is for beginners. In my opinion Canon is trying to provide a DSLR that can be used by both beginners and even professionals depending on the type of work that they do. This is all done at a very reasonable price. The problem that I see right now is that the price of the Nikon D300 is now at $1,550 which means that for just $150 more you can get a much more advanced camera. Two of those key features are the whopping 51-AF focus points versus the 9 on the Canon 50D as well as 100% coverage in the viewfinder versus 95%. You have to decide if the higher resolution, higher ISO performance and a better live view on the Canon 50D are more important to you. If so, then you should go with it. If not, you should go with the Nikon D300. However, be prepared to spend a lot of time learning because there are no automatic modes on that camera. Another important point to consider is the availability and prices of the lenses you will need. Canon lenses are readily available and are also cheaper than their Nikon equivalent. Shortly after I purchased my Canon 40D I simply went on Amazon and bought a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens. After I purchased my Nikon D300 I had to wait several months before I could get my hands on the Nikon equivalent of that lens. It is constantly back-ordered. When I finally got it I had to pay $300 more than the regular price. I own 5 Canon L lenses and I had no problem getting them - they were all ordered right here on Amazon.
SECTION 4: Conclusion
Your camera should make you feel invincible when out in the field. The Canon 50D is a robust and capable camera that produces stunning images even at very high ISOs. However, it is really up to you to decide whether this is the camera that is best for you based on your personal requirements, budget and preferences. Whether you decide to go with this camera or the Canon 40D or the Nikon D300 I can promise you that you will not be disappointed.
You can check out photos from the Canon 40D and Nikon D300 on my website at tajdigistudios. As I do shoots with the Canon 50D you will see photos from it as well. Be sure to check under the Portfolio menu item. If you are new to DSLRs you might want to check out my free course at tajdslrcourse. If you are considering the Canon 40D you should also check out my review of it right here on Amazon.
10/25/2008: I have uploaded three (3) photos of butterflies to the Customer Image Gallery here. The image quality is simply amazing. I really love this camera!!!!!
11/2/2008: The dpreview of the Canon 50D came out a few days ago. I have added a comment to discuss my thoughts on this. If you have found this review helpful, I recommend that you take a look at my comment to consider some of the negatives from that review. I ran out of space here.
11/23/2008: Softness Issue
In my original review I mentioned that you need a good lens with this camera. I want to stress it again because I have seen reports of softness which is as a result of the high resolution showing up the flaws of the lens being used. Several reviews have made this clear but it seems that people have not paid much attention to it so I am adding the references to this important requirement for getting the best results from the Canon 50D.
Dpreview actually pointed it out but not in a very clear way when the reviewer said: "At a pixel density of 4.5 MP/cm2 ... the lens becomes the limiting factor".
Digital Camera Review makes it much clearer what the issue is: "If anything, the extreme resolution of the new image sensor makes the lenses a potential weak link in terms of overall image quality." They continue: "Even stopped down, many budget lenses may produce soft images that lacks punch and crisp details, making it all the more important to pay attention to the glass you're using.". And finally: "Bottom line, there's not much to criticize about the image sensor in terms of image quality, so the right glass will make the biggest difference."
Camera Labs puts it like this: "Perhaps the biggest issue facing the EOS 50D though is its high resolution. Canon's use of gapless micro-lenses may have kept noise levels under control, but the high pixel density places greater demands on optics than ever before. We found the new EF-S 18-200mm IS lens, while highly flexible in terms of composition, just wasn't able to exploit the maximum resolution from the EOS 50D. If you want to make the most of the 50D's resolving power, you'll really need to couple it with decent lenses - in terms of a general purpose option, the EF 24-105mm f4.0L would be more appropriate."
Finally, from imaging-resource here is one of the cons: "Soft images with the 28-135mm kit lens; demands very good optics"
FOR BEST RESULTS, DO NOT BUY THIS CAMERA UNLESS YOU CAN AFFORD A GOOD LENS WITH IT!
I have seen some comments here by others that the Canon 50D is lacking IQ and could be Canon's Vista. They claim that this view is supported by dpreview and imaging-resource. I am a bit surprised by this since both dpreview and imaging-resource both highly recommend this camera.
Here is what imaging-resource had to say: "So while the 40D is great, and will remain in the market, the Canon 50D incorporates plenty of enhancements worth the couple-hundred extra bucks. The Canon 50D is an excellent digital SLR." Here is the final verdict from imaging-resource: "Excellent low-light performance, impressive printed output, very fast shutter lag times, solid build, superb customization, and excellent image quality all add up to make the Canon EOS 50D a great choice for all types of photographers, and a sure Dave's Pick."
At least both imaging-resource and cnet agrees that the Canon 50D delivers better results than the 40D at ISO 1600 and 3200. Their findings show that the higher resolution delivers extra sharpness without showing significantly more noise.
[...]
When people make these negative claims make sure you actually go and check the professional reviews that they are supposedly referencing.
Debating Between a Canon 50D and a Nikon D90? Read This!
Reviewed by: C. Tan, Bay Area, CA Review Date: 2009-05-26
Before you read this review, please note that the Canon 50D and D90 are not in the same class and are targeted at different markets, but there are still many people, including myself, comparing them with each other due to the relatively small difference in price. The Canon 50D should be compared to the Nikon D300, but since the D300 is clearly a better camera, there is no point. The 50D is in fact, somewhere in between the D90 and D300. With that being said, I hope you find my review helpful.
I spent a lot of time researching and comparing the Canon 50D with the Nikon D90. I picked the 50D. I hope my information here can help some of you out there making the same comparisons.
First of all, I highly suggest that you go to a local store and actually hold both cameras, play with them and get a feel for them. You will notice right away that the D90 feels cheap and is just made of plastic. The 50D, on the other hand, is made of magnesium-alloy and feels sturdy. It actually feels like a high-end camera. The 50D is also weather-sealed, unlike the D90. Build quality is extremely important, so keep that in mind. I also found the menus and button locations to be more user-friendly than the Nikon's.
I read a countless reviews on the 50D and D90. Most D90 reviews were pretty consistent with each other. The D90 is a great camera that provides excellent image quality, can take 720p videos and is $300 less than the 50D. The 50D review were also pretty consistent with each other. The 50D is not much of an improvement over the 40D, the increase to 15.1MP resulted in a small increase in image quality and resulted in more noise at higher ISO settings, it cannot take videos and is $300 more than the D90.
From a value standpoint, the D90 is a better camera. It's a few hundred bucks cheaper than the 50D and can take videos. That's pretty much where the comparisons end. Here's why.
1. The D90 isn't even a direct competitor of the 50D. The D90 is aimed toward the consumer market while the 50D is aimed toward the prosumer market. However, I still couldn't resist comparing the two, since the D300 was out of my budget.
2. Video Mode - Nikon released the D90 with a sub par video recording feature. It maxes out at 720p and does not, I repeat, DOES NOT have auto-focus. From my experience with the D90's video mode, the combination of holding the camera with one hand while focusing with the other and walking around resulted in, well, bad videos. If you want to take videos, get the Canon T1i.
3. Performance - The 50D, as with other prosumer level cameras, uses CF cards while the the D90, as with other consumer level cameras, uses SD cards. CF cards offer higher capacities, but more importantly, faster speeds. The 50D is capable of taking 6.3 frames per second in continuous shot mode while the D90 is capable of taking 4.5 frames per second. That's with JPEGs. Try continuous shooting with the D90 in RAW mode, and it will just beg you to stop. The D90 just isn't made for high speed photography. It's made for taking pictures when you are out on vacation with the family. The 50D, on the other hand, was designed for high speed photography, such as sports and and capturing moving objects.
4. Image Quality - Both cameras offer excellent image quality. It has been said in several reviews that the 50D produces noise at higher ISO settings than the D90 and even the Canon 40D. The reason for this is the higher MP count combined with the small size of the APS-C sensor along with the low quality of the lenses that were used in the reviews. If you plan on buying the 50D, PLEASE invest in a good lens to take advantage of the camera's increased pixel count. Had better lenses been used in reviews, the 50D would have received even better reviews. The 50D is not a consumer/enthusiast level camera, so why use cheap lenses to review it?
5. Live View - Wow, Live View is a sweet feature in DSLR camera. If you have an important shot to take, Live View can help you immensely! The 50D and D90 both have Live View. The D90 only has one auto-focus mode in Live View, which is Contrast Detect. The 50D has Phase Detect and Contrast Detect. The D90 can only zoom in 6.7x, while the 50D can zoom in 10x. Why is this important? The more you can zoom in, the more precisely you can dial in the focus. In addition, the 50D also offers micro focus adjustment to really dial in the focus. The D90's Live View is adequate for the average casual user, but it's completely unacceptable to a higher end user. The 50D's Live View feature caters to a more demanding photographer.
6. Value - The D90 is a few hundred dollars cheaper than the 50D. It has features that attract the average consumer, such a video. It produces great images worthy of a prosumer level camera, but lacks the feature and flexibility that a prosumer level camera offers, such as better build quality, better ergonomics, faster continuous shooting, full featured Live View and better tweakability. If these features are not important to you, get the D90. However, as you improve your photography skills and start to photograph a wider variety of scenarios, you will find yourself wanting the additional features that the 50D offers.
The question you should be asking yourself is - What do I want to do with the camera? Do you need a camera like the 50D, or do you see yourself needing its additional features down the road? The 50D might be too much camera for many people. For that reason, I highly recommend the casual user to get the D90. For you real photographers out there, get the Canon 50D. You will not miss the video feature, trust me. If you really want a Nikon, get the D300 (which does not have video either).
Out of this world camera...
Reviewed by: Maek, Phoenix, AZ United States Review Date: 2009-01-29
This camera is breathtakingly outstanding! If you're seriously considering doing some professional photography but you're a little irked by the price tag of DSLR offerings ($2,000 for the body and above), then stop here. You will not be disappointed.
For those reviews stating that images are "too soft", etc., please check Jodi-Ann Richards' review that nearly has 600 helpful votes (as of 1/29/09). She covers the camera in exhaustive detail.
If you don't have time to review her pages-long review, however, here's a quick summary of her bottom line: this camera's megapixel count of 15.1 REQUIRES GOOD OPTICS. It follows the old saying of "garbage in garbage out". If you buy cheap optics, then you'll be horrifically disappointed. You need the good optics to exploit the most of its 15.1 megapixel capabilities. That said, some reviews (notably dpreview.com) have stated that the increase of 5 megapixels from the 40D and the 50D are hardly noticeable, but keep in mind that they are testing the camera using one of the cheaper lens options. They do go on to say, however, that the megapixel count does demand good optics. I dare say that they would have been more pleased with the image quality if they had purchased one of Canon's "L" lenses.
I personally bought a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM lens ("L" is Canon's "flagship" line). The lens itself costs almost the same as the body itself, but is well worth it. The optics on this lens and the autofocus speed (lightning quick for a walkabout telephoto) is superb and the image results do not disappoint. Also, being able to maintain a f/4 aperture throughout the full length of the zoom is nice.
If you're looking into professional work, feel that the Canon Rebel doesn't give you the control that you'd like, and feel that spending more than $2,000 for a camera body is too much, then this is your camera. It maintains the balance of being able to be fully automatic to allowing you to manually adjust aperture, ISO speed, shutter speed, etc. by yourself.
You will not be disappointed with this purchase - just remember to get a GOOD LENS for this camera. It's crucial.
Great Camera - Excellent Pictures
Reviewed by: M. Gade, Boston, MA Review Date: 2008-12-06
I have recently bought Canon 50D from Amazon. Based on my initial experience with this Camera, I must say that 50D produces amazingly sharp pictures in low light conditions, with kids, and a variety of outdoor scenarios like sports and nature. I am an amateur in photography, and upgrading from an advanced point and shoot. I have read almost all reviews available on the internet including dpreview before deciding on 50D. I have given serious thoughts to Nikon 90D, but the build quality, ergonomics, and speed do not match with 50D. If you believe the picture quality counts over every thing else in a camera, Canon 50D is the way to go! You will not be disappointed!
Great step up from Digital Rebel Series
Reviewed by: S. Mujumdar, CA, United States Review Date: 2008-12-11
Upgraded from Digital rebel XTi primarily for functionality (heavily invested in Canon lenses, so Nikon wasn't an option)... I am the person who doesn't usually care for "fancy" features, but the first thing that you notice is the difference in the LCD display. Makes it very easy to review pictures ... I usually shoot my indoor shots without flash, I like the warm feel of pictures it produces, but often causes the pictures to be blurry. Often you can't see that the picture is blurry until it has been downloaded to the computer and then it is too late to rewind time and fix it. So LOVE the detail this LCD shows and the excellent contrast it offers.
The wheel makes browsing through pictures a lot easier. The joystick based menu makes it easy to customize your settings. The LCD display on top gives you a quick glance at all the settings without having to look inside the viewfinder (also great for checking/showing a newbie what settings you are using and why). The C1 and C2 settings can be used to remember your favorite custom settings for tricky conditions and can be a real time saver.
The Higher ISO settings (3200,6400) can come in pretty handy for taking pictures in low light without a flash, despite the noise - I prefer using the noise reduction features with the high ISO despite of the loss of detail that comes with it. Excellent camera!
Feedback: 469,227 / 99.8% Top-Rated Seller 
Feedback: 64,882 / 99.3%
Feedback: 5,373 / 99.5% Top-Rated Seller 
Feedback: 10,325 / 99.3%
Feedback: 33,974 / 99.5%
